The frame of the lamp is made from bar metal 3/4 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick, bent and welded to make a continuous loop in the shape as shown at G in the sketch. This frame should be about 10-1/2 in. long with the upper or wider part 4 in. long, and the lower part 6-1/2 in. long. The width should be about 5-1/4 in. at the top and 4 in. at the bottom. A cross bar, L, made of the same material, is fitted into the off-set in the frame and riveted. Holes are drilled through the frame and brass bushings, H and J, are fitted for bearings to receive the adjusting brass rod, B, which should be 1/4 in. in diameter. A brass curtain rod can be used for the rod B, and on its lower end a socket, P, is soldered.

Home Made Arc Lamp 245

A piece of brass 2 in. long, 1/2 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick is used for the armature, A, to be operated by the magnet coil, C. The coil, C, is made in the usual manner by wrapping No. 14 cotton-covered magnet wire on a wooden spool that has a soft iron core. The spool is about 2-1/2 in. long. The armature, A, is drilled, making a hole just a little larger than the rod, B, and is adjusted in place by two set screws, D and E. A soft piece of iron, F, is fastened to the opposite end of the armature with a screw, which should be placed directly under the end of the coil's core. This end of the armature may be kept from swinging around by placing it between a U-shaped piece of brass fastened to the cross piece L. At the bottom end of the frame, and directly centering the holes H and J, a hole is drilled to receive a hard rubber bushing, R, for insulating the brass ferrule, S, that holds the lower carbon.

One connection is made from the main to the upper binding-post, which is in turn connected to one terminal of the coil, C, the other coil terminal being attached to the frame. The other main connection is made to the lower binding-post, which is also connected to the brass ferrule, S, by soldering. The two binding-posts are insulated from the frame the same as the ferrule S. When using on a 110-volt circuit there must be some resistance in connection, which may be had by using German silver wire, or a water rheostat heretofore described. --Contributed by Arthur D. Bradlev. Randolph, Mass.

How To Make Lamps Burn Brightly

For a good, steady light there is nothing better than a lamp, but like most everything it must have attention. After cleaning well and fitting it, place a small lump of camphor in the oil vessel. This will greatly improve the light and make the flame clearer and brighter. If there is no camphor at hand add a few drops of vinegar occasionally.

Experiment With An Incandescent Lamp

When rubbing briskly an ordinary incandescent lamp on a piece of cloth and at the same time slightly revolving it, a luminous effect is produced similar to an X-ray tube. The room must be dark and the lamp perfectly dry to obtain good results. It appears that the inner surface of the globe becomes charged, probably by induction, and will sometimes hold the filament as shown in the sketch. --Contributed by E. W. Davis, Chicago.

How To Make A Small Motor [428]

Acetylene Lamp

When an acetylene lamp is in good order it will light up slowly with a hissing noise followed by a pure white flame. Should the lamp light up quickly with a yellowish flame, it is a sign of a leak somewhere.

A Quickly Made Lamp

A very simple lamp can be made from materials which are available in practically every household in the following manner: A cheap glass tumbler is partly filled with water and then about 1/2 in. of safe, light burning oil, placed on the water. Cut a thin strip from an ordinary cork and make a hole in the center to carry a short piece of wick. The wick should be of such a length as to dip into the oil, but not long enough. To reach the water. The upper surface of the cork may be protected from the flame with a small piece of tin bent over the edges and a hole punched in the center for the wick. The weight of the tin will force the cork down into the oil. The level of the oil should be such as to make the flame below the top of the tumbler and the light then will not be blown out with draughts. The arrangement is quite safe as, should the glass happen to upset, the water at once extinguishes the flame.-Contributed by G. P. B.

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