Fig. 1 -Trailer Attached to a Bicycle
Instead of using a seat on the handlebars or frame of a bicycle for my little girl, I made a trailer, as shown in Fig. 1, to attach to the rear axle. I made it from old bicycle parts. The handlebars, which form the back of the seat, fasten into the seat post of an old bicycle attached to the trailer axle. The trailer is attached to the rear axle of the bicycle with two arms or forks, on the ends of which are two forgings, formerly used on the rear ends of a bicycle frame, brazed in, and one of the tube projections cut off from each to make a hook, as shown in Fig. 2. The piece marked E shows one of these forgings or hooks in section. The original axle of the bicycle was removed and one 1-5/16 in. longer supplied, which was turned below the threads for clearance, as shown at A. A washer, D, with a hexagon hole was fitted over the regular nut C, on the axle, and filed tapering so the forging or hook E, on the trailer attachment, could be kept in position. The washer F is held tightly against the hook by pressure from a spring, G. The spring is held in place by a small nut, H, and cotter pin, 1. This attachment makes a flexible joint for turning corners. When turning from right to left the left hook on the trailer fork stays in position, while the right hook pushes the washer F outward and relieves the strain on the fork. This attachment also makes it easy to remove the trailer from the bicycle. The washers F are pushed outward and the hook raised off the axle. --Contributed by John F. Grieves, Providence, R. I.
Illustration: Fig. 2-The Hook in Position
This attachment was constructed for use on a bicycle to be ridden on the well packed sands of a beach, but it could be used on a smooth, level road as well. The illustration shows the main frame to consist of two boards, each about 16 ft. long, bent in the shape of a boat, to give plenty of room for turning the front wheel. On this main frame is built up a triangular mast, to carry the mainsail and jib, having a combined area of about 40 sq. ft. The frame is fastened to the bicycle by numerous pieces of rope.
Illustration: Bicycle Sailing on a Beach
Sailing on a bicycle is very much different from sailing in a boat, for the bicycle leans up against the wind, instead of heeling over with it as the boat. It takes some time to learn the supporting power of the wind, and the angle at which one must ride makes it appear that a fall is almost sure to result. A turn must be made by turning out of the wind, instead of, as in ordinary sailing, into it; the boom supporting the bottom of the mainsail is then swung over to the opposite tack, when one is traveling at a good speed.
Instead of storing away your bicycle for the winter, attach runners and use it on the ice. The runners can be made from 1/4-in. by 1-in. iron and fastened to the bicycle frame as shown in the sketch. The tire is removed from the rim of the rear wheel and large screws turned into the rim, leaving the greater part of the screw extending. Cut off the heads of the screws and file to a point. The rear runners should be set so the rim of the wheel will be about 1/2 in. above the runner level. --Contributed by C. R. Welsh, Manhattan, Kan.
Bicycle Fitted with Runners for Snow
Make an enamel by mixing 2 oz. burnt umber with 1 qt. boiled oil, heating, and then adding 1 oz. asphaltum. Keep the mass hot until thoroughly mixed, says the Master Painter. Thin with turpentine while still hot.
Use a camel's hair brush for applying the enamel and allow it to set; then place the article in an oven, bake for six or eight hours at a temperature of 250 deg. F. When cool rub down with steel wool. Apply a finishing coat and allow it to bake eight hours at 250 deg. F. Rub down with a soft rag, varnish and bake again at 200 deg. F. Heat and cool the frame gradually each time. Black enamel is easiest to apply and bakes hardest, but requires a temperature of 300 deg. Colors can be baked at from 200 to 250 deg.