Within a few years the town of Napoleon, which has already been mentioned as the site which beheld the cross erected by Marquette and the seizure of La Salle, was the scene of still another chapter in history. Almost two hundred years from the time when Joliet and Marquette beheld the historic ground, the river turned its current against the banks, and in a few hours the crumbling walls of an old stone building, half a mile or more from the river banks, were the surviving monument that marked the former location of the town.

The Mississippi is indeed a grand study, and the people who have lived in its valley during past ages have seen the river doing just what it is doing to-day; and as race has succeeded race, each in turn has seen the landmarks of its predecessors swept away by its angry flood and buried beneath its sediment. Ever since the crests of the Appalachian and Rocky Mountains were thrust up above the sea, the river has been wearing them away, and bearing the scourings to the vast plain below. In the time of its building it has made the greatest and the richest valley on the face of the earth; next to that of the Amazon it is the largest, covering an area of one and one-quarter million square miles. The river and its tributaries drain twenty-eight States and Territories - an area equal to that of all Europe except Russia. This basin includes half the area of the United States, exclusive of Alaska. It is five times as large as Austria-Hungary, six times the size of France or Germany, nine times the area of Spain, and ten times that of the British Isles. Measured by its grain-producing capacity, this valley is capable of supporting a larger population than any other physical region on the face of the earth. Already it is the foremost region in the world in the production of grain, meat and cotton.

The rich soil, sedentary on the prairie and alluvial in the bottomlands, is almost inexhaustible in its nutritious qualities. The soil cannot be "worn out" in the bottomlands, for nature restores its vitality by bringing fresh supplies from the highlands as fast or faster than the seed crop exhausts it. Sixty bushels of wheat or two bales of cotton may be harvested from an acre of bottom lands. So vast in proportions is the yearly crop of food stuffs that more than three hundred thousand freight cars and about two thousand vessels are required to move the crop from farm to market. One hundred and twenty-five thousand miles of railway, fifteen thousand miles of navigable water, exclusive of the Great Lakes, and several thousand miles of canals are insufficient to transport this enormous production; thousands of miles of railway are therefore yearly built in order to keep pace with the growth of population and the settlement of new lands. To the natural resources of the soil add the enormous mineral wealth hidden but a few feet below the surface, and wonder grows to amazement.

Coal fields surpassing in extent all the remaining fields in the world; iron ore sufficient to stock the world with iron and steel for the next thousand years; copper of the finest quality; zinc, lead, salt, building stone and timber, all in quantities sufficient for a population a hundred times as great. Is it strange that wise economists point to this territory and say, "Behold the future empire of the world"? Where in the wide world is another valley in which climate, latitude and nature have been so liberal?

It is only a few years since the Indian and the bison divided between them the sole possession of this region. What a change hath the hand of destiny wrought! What a revelation, had some unseen hand lifted the curtain that separated the past from the future! Iron, steam and electricity have in them more of mysterious power than ever oriental fancy accredited to the genii of the lamp, and the future of the basin of the Mississippi will be a greater wonder than the past.

The feast of La Salle was the death warrant of the Indian, and the Aryan has crowded out the Indian, just as the latter evicted the mound builder - just as the mound builder overcame the people whose monuments of burned brick and cut stone now lie fifty feet below the surface. Only a few centuries have gone by since these happenings; can we number the years hence when rapacious hordes from another land shall drive out the effete descendants of the now sturdy Aryan?

(To be continued.)

[1]Read May 17, 1890, before the Engineers' Club of Philadelphia.[2]

Estimated at from 100,000 to 150,000 years. Such estimates, however, are but little better than guesses.

[3]

From the best information I can gather I am unable to decide to my own satisfaction whether or not La Salle discovered the Red River. It is not improbable that he never saw this stream, for it is more than likely that at that time, Red River poured its waters directly into the Gulf of Mexico, through Atchafalaya and Cocoudrie Bayous. That these were formerly a part of the channel of Red River, there can be no doubt. The sluggish swale that now leads from the river to the Gulf is a silted channel that was formerly large enough to carry the whole volume of Red River. Such changes in the channel of a river, when the latter flows through "made" soil, are by no means infrequent. It is only a few years since the Hoang River, "the sorrow of Han," broke through its restraining banks, and poured its flood into the Gulf of Pe-chee-lee, 350 miles distant from its former mouth.]

[4]

"The bed of the river is so broad that the channel meanders from side to side within the bed, just as the bed itself meanders from bluff to bluff; and, as by erosions and deposits, the river, in long periods of time, traverses the valley, so the channel traverses the bed from bank to bank, justifying the remark often heard, that 'not a square rod of the bed could be pointed out that had not, at some time, been covered by the track of steamboats.'" - J.H. SIMPSON, Col. Eng., Brevet Brig.-Gen., U.S.A.

[5]

One of the most noteworthy examples of these cut-offs is Davis'. This cut-off occurred at Palmyra Bend, eighteen miles below Vicksburg. The mid-channel distance around the bend was not far from twenty miles; the neck was only twelve hundred feet across. The fall of the river, measured around the bend, was about four inches per mile; the slope, measured across the neck, was about five and one-half feet, nearly twenty feet per mile. Inasmuch as the soil in the neck was wholly alluvial, the current cut its new channel with exceedingly great rapidity, soon clearing it out a mile in width and more than one hundred feet in depth. The water rushed through the channel with such a velocity that steamboats could not breast its flow for many weeks, while the roaring of its flood could be heard many miles away. The influence of the cut-off was felt both above and below Vicksburg for several years after. The rate of erosion has been perceptibly increased above Vicksburg: and it is not unlikely that the cut-off which occurred a few years later at Commerce, about thirty miles below Memphis, was a result of Davis' Cut. Other recent cut-offs have occurred near Arkansas City, below Greenville, near Duncansby, below Lake Providence at Vicksburg, and at Kienstra. The latter place is below Natchez; all the others are between Natchez and Memphis. A double cut-off is strongly threatened at Greenville.

[6]

For convenience to navigation, the islands in the lower Mississippi, beginning at St. Louis, are numbered. Many of them, however, have local names by which they are frequently known.