The Rose will flourish in any situation where the soil is well prepared; but it is best to plant the Rose where it can be shaded from the intensity of the mid-day sun. If it can be so located as to receive the morning and evening sun, and shaded during its greatest heat, the bloom will be more perfect, and continue longer. Some varieties are very delicate, and their blossoms are almost ruined by a full exposure. An eastern or northern exposure is, therefore, the' best. Roses should not, however, be wholly shaded.


The best season for planting all the hardy Roses, as before stated, is in autumn; or, if necessary to defer till spring, it should be done as early as possible. If planted late in the spring, it will be best to cut the plants down to a few buds. Any time, after the first severe frost, is a proper time to commence planting. The plants should be taken up with great care, disturbing the roots as little as possible, remembering that the breaking of a single fibre diminishes the strength of the growth and future prosperity of the plant. Presuming that the ground is all ready, the holes should be dug somewhat larger than the roots. "When the planting is completed, the plant should stand but a very little lower in the ground than it stood before. The operation of placing the roots and fibres should be done with the nicest care. In 'my fall planting, I place the plant in an oblique direction, so that the plants may be easily bent down and covered. Fall-planted Roses are liable to be more or less winter-killed, which is prevented, if covered with coarse litter, or manure.

We have seen Pillar Roses, in the grounds of Mr. Charles Hoffman, of Salem, - which, without protection, are liable to be killed down to within two or three feet of the ground, - grown in great magnificence, forming, beautiful pyramids of Roses from twelve to fifteen feet high. We had never seen the Pillar Rose in such perfection. They were the same varieties which in our own ground did not exceed more than five or six feet, as the greater part of the new wood is every winter killed down. We were informed that the supports to which these Roses were trained, consisting of nothing more than three or four strong spruce poles, were taken away in autumn, and the plants laid down and covered with earth, or coarse manure. The only time to plant tender Roses, as far north as Boston, is in the spring. The China, Bengal, and Tea Roses may be grown in the open ground, in New England, if they are taken up in autumn. They may be kept in a dry, cool cellar, with the roots packed in loam or sand; or they may be laid in by the heels, on a dry knoll, and covered with earth, where they will remain secure till spring. In planting them out, they should be cut down to a few buds, and they will bloom after the summer Roses have passed away, provided the roots were taken up well-In replanting Roses, the roots should be carefully examined, and all broken or bruised parts should be cut off with a sharp knife.

A young, healthy plant is much better than one that is old and overgrown, to plant out; indeed, old plants should be rejected.

Plantations of Roses should be made to succeed each other. In the second and third years after planting, the Rose will be in its greatest perfection. After the plants become old, they do not do so well; and I have found, in my own experience, that five years was long enough to continue a plantation. It is best then to prepare a new place, or, in fact, it should be prepared, and the new plantation made, a year before the old one is given up, as a general and perfect bloom cannot be expected the first year.

It is becoming fashionable, at the present time, to plant out Roses in masses, which have a fine effect, where the white, the crimson, or other distinct colors, are planted by themselves. Many of the strong-growing sorts are suitable for planting with other shrubs in the shrubbery.


Roses, in this climate, should be pruned early in the spring. For Roses that are grown as dwarfs, it is necessary to prune them down to a few buds; all the old wood, and the weak, last year's growth, should be taken entirely away. The young wood generally produces the finest flowers, which, when properly pruned, are larger and much more double than when the bushes are suffered to grow at random.

In pruning climbing Roses, the operation must be different, as it is necessary to retain the whole length of the most vigorous shoots, cutting out all the old wood that will not be likely to produce fine flowers, and pruning down the lateral branches to one eye. The manner of pruning must, in a measure, depend upon the variety of the Rose, and more particularly upon the style in which it is to be trained. This must be left to the ingenuity and taste of the cultivator; and whether it is to be trained to a trellis, over an arch, pillar, or in whatever shape it is wanted, the proper way will generally suggest itself.