An untrained cook with an untrained palate cannot make a perfect sauce. Sauces and soups are the fine arts of cookery, and the person who undertakes them must understand tastes and flavors, as well as chemistry. Cold butter put into a hot saucepan spoils the sauce; saucepan and butter must heat slowly together, and the butter must not be left to boil, or both flavor and digestibility are spoiled. An iron saucepan will not produce a delicate sauce. Keep a dainty white granite pan especially for sauces.

Each sauce should be fitted or adapted to the vegetable or meat or fish with which it is to be served. Fish requires a slightly acid sauce; for it either lemon juice or vinegar may be used. Roots used as vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, etc., not containing much nourishment, may be covered with a cream or an egg sauce. Asparagus, summer squash, cooked radishes, artichokes are better with sauce Hollandaise.

One rounding or two level tablespoonfuls of butter and one rounding or two level tablespoonfuls of flour will thicken half a pint of liquid. The rounding measurements are used in the reci pes. Seasonings must be added to harmonize with the articles with which the sauce is to be served.

Blend the fat and flour, and add the liquid cold, if possible. Stir constantly until the mixture boils. This method insures a smooth sauce, prevents the boiling of the butter and more thoroughly cooks the starch. Eggs must be added after the sauce is taken from the fire; then cook slightly over hot water. Add salt and pepper at last.