This section is from the book "The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book", by Fannie Merritt Farmer. Also available from Amazon: Original 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.
Peas contain, next to beans, the largest percentage of proteid of any of the vegetables, and when young are easy of digestion. They appear in market as early as April, coming from Florida and California, and although high in price are hardly worth buying, having been picked so long. Native peas may be obtained the middle of June, and last until the first of September. The early June are small peas, contained in a small pod. McLean, the best peas, are small peas in large flat pods. Champion peas are large, and the pods are well filled, but they lack sweetness. Marrowfat peas are the largest in the market, and are usually sweet.
Remove peas from pods, cover with cold water, and let stand one-half hour. Skim off undeveloped peas which rise to top of water, and drain remaining peas. Cook until soft in a small quantity of boiling water, adding salt the last fifteen minutes of cooking. (Consult Time Table for Cooking, p. 28). There should be but little, if any, water to drain from peas when they are cooked. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If peas have lost much of their natural sweetness, they are improved by the addition of a small amount of sugar.
Drain Boiled Peas, and to two cups peas add three-fourths cup White Sauce II. Canned peas are often drained, rinsed, and reheated in this way.
Drain and rinse one can peas, and rub through a sieve. To one cup pea pulp add two beaten eggs, two tablespoons melted butter, two-thirds teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, few grains cayenne, and few drops onion juice. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with one cup white sauce to which is added one-third cup canned peas drained and rinsed.
 
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