This section is from the book "The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book", by Fannie Merritt Farmer. Also available from Amazon: Original 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book.
The Cold Pack Method is so named because the product is cool when packed into its container. Fruits and vegetables canned by the Cold Pack Method are properly selected and prepared, then sterilized a required length of time in their containers.
There are thirteen distinct steps in the process:
1. Grade product. (By product is meant the article to be canned.)
2. Prepare product.
3. Wash product.
4. Blanch vegetables and hard fruits by boiling, scalding, or steaming. Do not blanch berries or soft fruits.
5. Plunge product in cold water. This is called the "cold dip."
6. Pack in jars.
7. To fruits add syrup; to vegetables add hot water and salt.
8. Adjust rubbers and covers.
9. Partially tighten covers.
10. Sterilize or "process" product required length of time.
11. Remove jar from boiling water.
12. Tighten cover of jar.
13. Invert jar to cool.
Grading. Fruit and vegetables should be fresh, free from decay, and as nearly uniform in shape and state of ripeness as is possible. Wilted fruits or vegetables cannot be guaranteed to keep. Use imperfect fruit for jams. Can vegetables as soon as picked and fruit the same day as picked.
Preparation of Vegetables. Vegetables to be canned are prepared in the same way as when cooked for the table. When the can is opened, the contents will be ready to use.
Washing. Vegetables are in danger of spoiling if dirt or foreign substances of any kind remain on them. They must be thoroughly cleaned by washing or wiping before being blanched.
Blanching. Blanching is the term used to designate the process of short cooking before the product is put into its container. To blanch the fruit or vegetable place a quantity sufficient to fill one jar in a wire basket, plunge into a large kettle of boiling water, and leave the length of time required in the time-table for blanching. Use a square yard of cheese-cloth with opposite corners tied, if wire basket is not at hand. Minutes are counted from the time the water begins to boil after the product is put into it. Be sure that the water reaches all parts of the product.
If the blanching kettle is filled with fruit, the water becomes chilled and takes so long to come again to the boiling point that the fruit becomes soft before it is heated through, while the juices of the vegetables are drawn out in the water. Therefore, plunge only a small amount of fruit and vegetables at a time.
In steaming, the product is heated by steam but is not immersed in water.
In scalding, the product is plunged into the water. The minutes are counted from the time it is immersed without waiting for the water to come to the boiling-point. Scalding loosens the skins of fruit and vegetables that have to be peeled.
Blanching removes any foreign matter that escaped the washing, and any strong flavor that might be undesirable in the cooked product, and makes it possible to sterilize vegetables in one period of cooking. Vegetables not blanched require three periods of cooking on three successive days.
Cold Dip. Immediately upon removing product from boiling water or steam used in blanching, plunge it into cold water, lifting it up and down in the water three times; then drain. Use plenty of water and have it cold. Never allow product to soak in water. The cold dip helps to keep product in shape during sterilization, and makes it easier to remove skins and to handle product while packing in jars.
Packing in Jars. Any jar or can that is clean and can be made air-tight may be used. Large-mouthed, clear glass jars are to be preferred for home use, as they are easy to fill and can be used again and again. First warm the jars by rinsing them in hot water and let stand in hot water until used. Pack product firmly and closely, leaving no open spaces, but being careful that product is not jammed or crushed. Arrange products so that they will look well through the glass. Pack jars and put in sterilizer one at a time.
Adding Syrup or Hot Water. Pill jars to within half an inch of top with boiling liquid, pouring it slowly to avoid breaking. For vegetables, except tomatoes, use boiling water and allow one teaspoon of salt to each quart jar. For tomatoes use tomato juice and no water. For fruits, make a syrup by boiling two parts water with three parts sugar. This may be boiled only long enough to dissolve the sugar, if fruit needs very little sweetening; or to a very thick syrup for rich preserves. For unsweetened fruits use only water or fruit juice and no sugar.
Cut spinach or other greens diagonally with a knife after they are in the jar, so that water can reach center of greens in jar.
Any air space remaining at top of jar will be sterilized and can make no trouble.
Adjusting Rubber and Cover. When jars are packed, put on the rubbers. These must be new each year, and tested. If a rubber comes back to its original size after being stretched, it is right for use; if it remains enlarged, discard it. It is imperative that rubbers be elastic and tight. Covers and jar tops must be smooth and fit correctly.
Partially Tighten Covers. Put on the covers and partially tighten. Leave the lower lever of jar up and do not quite complete turning screws of screw-top jars. If the cover is put on perfectly tight there will be no room for expansion and breakage is liable to occur.
Sterilizing or Processing. To sterilize, slowly lower the product in its can, top up, in a kettle or boiler of boiling water; then add water to cover the jars two inches over the top. Bring the water to the boiling-point and keep boiling the length of time given on the time-table for sterilizing the product being canned. A rack in the bottom of the kettle is necessary to keep the cans from resting directly on the bottom, or individual wire holders can be used. Keep the water boiling constantly during the sterilizing process.
Removing Jars. A wire holder with handle for each jar is convenient to use. If they are not at hand, lift jars from boiling water with a long-handled skimmer, or spring fork.
Tighten the Cover. Tighten the cover immediately.
Inverting Jars. Place jars upside down on a cloth, allowing space between jars. Keep protected from drafts. A draft in the kitchen causes more breaks than anything else. If a can shows signs of fermentation after two or three days, loosen the covers and sterilize again for a short time.
 
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