Put on the broth in a clean stewpan, break the white and shell of an egg, beat them together, put them into the broth when it is coming to a boil, stir it very quick with a whisk; when it has boiled a few minutes, strain it through a tammis or a clean napkin.

I shall therefore endeavour to give the plainest directions how to produce, with the least trouble and expense † possible, all the various compositions the English kitchen affords for the amusement of John Bull, and hope to present sufficient variety to suit all palates, and all pockets; so that the cook may give satisfaction in all families: the more combinations of this sort she is acquainted with. the better she will comprehend the management of every one of them. I have only rejected some outlandish farragoes;

* It is the duty of a good sauce, [says the editor of the from a conviction they were by no means adapted to an English palate, though they have been received into some English books, for the sake of swelling the volume: I believe they will never be received by an Englishman's stomach, unless for the reason they were admitted into the cookery book; i. e. because he has nothing else to put in it. I could have made this the biggest book* with halt the trouble it has taken me to make it the best. I have taken as much pains in describing, in the fullest manner, how to make in the easiest, most agreeable, and most economical way, those common sauces that daily contribute to the com-fort of the middle ranks of society; as I have, in directing the preparation of those extravagant and elaborate double relishes, the most ingenious and accomplished "officers of the mouth" have invented for the amusement of thorough bred grand gourmands: these I have so reduced the trouble and expense of making, as to bring them within the reach of moderate fortunes, still preserving all that is valuable of their taste and I intend here to offer to all such as please to peruse it, "a plain book, which is all and every part of it Book, and nothing but solid book from beginning to end." - Vide preface to Dr. Fuller's "Introductio ad Prudentiam" London, qualities; and yet so ordering them, that they ma, delight the palate, without disordering the sto mach; leaving out those inflammatory ingredi ents which are only fit for an "iron throat, and adamantine bowels," and those costly materials which any rational being would refuse to destroy for the wanton purpose of merely giving a fin name to the compositions they enter into, whose excellence they contribute nothing else for instance, consuming two partridges to make sauce for one, when half a pint of my game gravy No. 329, would be infinitely more acceptable to unsophisticated English appetites, for whose pro per and rational recreation I sat down to com pose these receipts: if I gain their patronage which I have done my utmost to deserve, by de voting so much time to the business of the kitchen, and repeating every experiment than appeared the least doubtful, or I thought admit ted of the smallest improvement: I shall be fully gratified, if my book is not bought up with quits so much avidity by those high bred epicures who are unhappily so ranch more nice than wise, they cannot eat any tiling dressed by an Englishman, and consider it barbarously unrefined, and intolerably ungenteel, to endure the sight of the best bill of fare that can be contrived, if written in the vulgar tongue *. Let your sauces each display a decided character; send up your simple sauces as pure as possible; they should only taste of the material they take their name from. . The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the hunt for a relish, they seem to think they can never make sauce savoury, without putting into it every thing that ever was eaten; and too fond of supposing every addition must be an improvement, frequently destroy the natural flavour of their plain sauces, by overloading them with salt and spices †: but, remember, these will be deteriorated by any addition, save only just salt unsightly, than the surface of a sauce in a frozen state, or garnished with grease on the top; to remove every particle of which, draw a piece of filtering paper over it: the same may be said of all made dishes, of whose paraphernalia the sauce forms a conspicuous part: remember to let your sauces boil up, after you have put in any wine, anchovy, or thickening, that their flavours may be well blended with the other ingredients*.

"Almanack des Gourmands,'"vol. v. page 6,; to insinuate itself ail round and about the maxillary glands, and imperceptibly awaken into activity each ramification of the organs of taste: if not sufficiently savoury, it cannot produce this effect, and if too piquante, it will paralyze, instead of exciting those exquisitely delicious titillations of tongue, and volup-tuous gustatory orgasmas, that only the most accomplished philosophers of the mouth can produce on the highly educated palates of thrice happy grand gourmands.

† To save time and trouble is the most valuable frugality; and if the mistress of a family will condescend to devote a little time to the profitable and pleasant employment of preparing some of the concentrated essences, the manner of making which I have so plainly described in the following chapter, many dishes may be dressed with half the usual time and trouble.

12mo. 1721.

* Though some of these people have at last found out, that an Englishman's head is as full of gravy as a Frenchman's, and willing to give the preference to native talent, retain an Englishman or woman as prime minister of their kitchen; still they seem ashamed to confess it, as they commonly insist, as a "sine qua non," that these English domestics should understand the "parlez vous;" and notwithstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiae of culinary concerns, they consider them ineligible, if they cannot scribble a bill of fare in French.

† Spices are often very injudiciously jumbled together. We would never have clove and allspice, or mace and nutmeg in the same sauce: one will very well supply the place of the other, and the frugal cook may save something considerable by attending to this, to the advantage of her emenough to awaken the palate. On the contrary, of your compound sauces the ingredients should be so nicely proportioned, that no one be predominant; but, from the equal union of the combined flavours, a fine mellow mixture is produced, whose very novelty cannot fail of being sufficient excitement to the persevering gourmand, if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at his table. An ingenious cook will form an endless variety of these compositions; and no part of her business offers so fair an opportunity for her to display her abilities.

To be a complete mistress of the art of cleverly extracting and combining flavours *, besides the gift of a good taste, requires all the experience, all the genius, and all the dexterity and skill of the most accomplished and exquisite professor, and an intimate acquaintance and an attentive consideration of the palates of those she is working for.

Take especial care to have your sauces sent to table as hot as possible: nothing need be more ployers, and her own time and trouble. In many of our receipts, we have fallen in with the fashion of ordering a mixture of spices, which the above hint will enable the culinary stu-dentto correct.

* If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best way to refresh it, is to wash your mouth well with milk.

* Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your other ingredients well boiled, and your sauce or soup of proper thickness, as neither eggs nor cream will contribute much to thicken it. .After you have put them in, do not set the stewpan on the stove again, but hold it over the fire, and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready.

Melted Butter it is spoiled nine times out of ten, more from idleness than from ignorance, and rather because the cook wont do it, than because she can't do it. As it is the foundation of almost all our sauces*, I have tried every way of making it, and hope, at last, 1 have written two receipts, which if the leader carefully observes, she will constantly succeed in giving satisfaction. In the quantities of the various sauces I have ordered, I have had in view the providing for a moderate family of half a dozen people. I recommend the cook never to pour the sauce over the meat, or even put it into the dish; for, however well made, some of the company may have an antipathy to it: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, it will keep hot longer, and what is left of it may be put by for another time, or used for another purpose.

Appears to be so simple and easy to prepare, it is certainly very surprising it is not uniformly well clone, and is a matter of general astonishment, that what is done so often in every kitchen, should so seldom be done right.

Lastly, it is to be observed, that in ordering the proportions of meat, butter, wine, spice, etc. in the following receipts, the proper quantity is set down, and that a less quantity will not do; and in some instances, those who are fond of the extreme of piquance perhaps will require an addition, if we have erred, it has been on the right side, from an anxious wish to combine elegance with economy, and the toothsome with the wholesome. The following we recommend as an elegant relish to finish soups and sauces.

* As gravy is those of the French kitchen.