This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Behead and bone two anchovies, pound them in a marble mortar, with two tablespoonful of salad oil, and a teaspoonful of made mustard, some parsley leaves, and a shallot minced fine; when well mixed, add vinegar to your taste, and pass it through a hair sieve, and season it with pepper and salt.
A very good sauce for cold meat.
Have ready a pint of beef or veal broth in a quart stewpan; put into another stewpan an ounce of butter; when it is melted, shake in as much flour as will make it a stiff paste; stir till it is well mixed, but be careful not to let it catch colour: mix this with the broth, and stir till it is smooth; season it with a small bundle of young onions and parsley, six berries of allspice, and six mushrooms if you have them; cover your stewpan closely, and set it on the corner of the stove to simmer gently for an hour, and strain your sauce through a tammis.
Pour four tablespoonsful of sauce tournee into a_ pint stewpan; when the sauce is hot, put in two tablespoonsful of good thick cream; season with a little salt; strain through a tammis, and send it up hot.
This is also from the French kitchen, and is, in fact, only a richer preparation of sauce tournee.
Mix very gradually together, in a marble or wedgewood mortar, an ounce of flour of mustard, with three tablespoonsful of milk, and half a teaspoonful of salt, and the same of sugar.
Mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter, and may therefore be instantly brought to table.
Mix by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar, the best Durham flour of mustard with cold water in which scraped horseradish has been boiled, rub it well together till it is quite smooth: keep it in a stone jar, closely stopped: only put as much into the mustard pot as will be used in a day or two. The ready made keeping mustard, that is prepared at the oil shops, is mixed with one fourth part salt: this is useful to preserve it, if it is to be kept long; otherwise, by all means omit it. The best way of eating salt is in substance.
*** See also Recipe, No. 427.
Some opulent epicures mix their mustard with sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled vinegar, instead of horseradish water.
The French flavour their mustard with Cham-paigne, and other wines, capers, anchovies, tarragon or elder vinegar, garlick, shallot, celery, and fine herbs, truffles, etc. etc.
Common salt is more relishing than basket salt; it should be prepared for the table by drying it in a plate before the fire, and then putting it on clean paper; roll it with a rolling pin; or, what is still better, pound it in a mortar till it is quite fine, it will look as well as basket salt.
*** Select for table use, the lumps of salt.
 
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