This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Instinct speaks pretty plainly to those whose instrument3 of digestion are in a delicate and impaired state, and commonly pleads with more perfect truth (for those materials they stand most in need of,) than any dietetic rules that can be contrived.
To affirm that such a thing is wholesome, or unwholesome, without considering the subject in all the circumstances which it bears relation to, is, with submission, talking nonsense *.
No regimen of life can be laid down that will suit every body; no food is so delicious that it pleases all palates; and nothing can be more correct than the old adage, "one man's meat is another man's poison."
It would be as difficult for a Laplander to convince our good citizens that train oil is a more elegant relish than their favourite turtle, as for the former to fancy that Alderman Birch or Mr. Angell's soup can be as agreeable, as the grease and garbage, which custom has taught him to call delicious.
* Celsus spoke very sensibly when he said, "that a healthy man under his own government, ought not to tie himself up by strict rules, nor to abstain from any sort of food; that he ought sometimes to fast, and sometimes to feast." When applied to eating, nothing is more true than that "Bonarum rerum, consuetudo pessima est." The author of this work wishes he had leisure to devote more time to the subject. An ingenious chemist, and an intelligent cook, might form a very complete work, by taking for their text Dr. George Pearson's admirably arranged catalogues of food, drink, and seasoning; the most comprehensive and learned abstract of this subject we have ever seen. This epitome was printed for his Lectures on Therapeutics, etc. which the author attended in 1801.
The cook, therefore, should be cautious of seasoning high, and leave it to the eaters to add the condiments according to their own palate and fancy: for this purpose, "The Magazine of Taste" or "Sauce-box*," will be found an invaluable acquisition, as its contents will instantaneously produce any flavour that may be desired.
I have a very good reason to give in support of my doctriue, that what the appetite desires most, the stomach will digest best, which is, that mastication † , the jaw-work, or invite an indigestion by neglecting mastication. I cannot give any rules for this, as it depends so much on the strength or weakness of the subject, especially the state of the teeth and maxillary glands: every one ought to ascertain the condition of these useful working tools, and to use them with proportionate diligence is an indispensable exercise which every rational epicure will cheerfully perform, who has a proper regard for the welfare of his stomach." - Almanach des Gourmands, vol. iii. page 249, etc. Mastication is the source of all good digestion : with it almost any thing may be put into any stomach with impunity : without it, digestion must be always difficult, and frequently impossible: and be it remembered, it is not merely what we eat, but what we digest well, that nourishes us. The sagacious gourmand is ever mindful of his motto, "Masticate, denticate, chump, grind, and swallow:" The four first acts of which he knows he must perform well, before he dare attempt the fifth."
* Vide No. 463.
† To chew long and leisurely is the only way to extract the quintessence of our food, to completely enjoy the taste of it, and to render it easily assimilable and convertible into laudable chyle, by the facility it gives to the gastric juices to dissolve it without trouble. The pleasure of the palate, and the health of the stomach, are equally promoted by this salutary habit, which ail should be taught to acquire in their infancy. The more tender the meat is, the more we may eat of it From thirty to forty may be given as the mean number of munches that solid meat requires, to prepare it for its journey down the red lane, according to the tenderness of the meat;, less will be sufficient for tender, delicate, and easily digestible white meats. The sagacious gourmand must calculate this precisely, and not waste his precious moments in useless first act of the important process of digestion, is then more perfectly performed; because, as we naturally detain upon our palate those things which please it, the food we relish most is consequently most broken down by chewing, and most intimately incorporated with the saliva.
To encourage the best performance of the machinery of mastication, the cook must take care that her dinner is not only well dressed, but that each dish be sent to table with its proper accompaniments in the neatest and most elegant manner.
Remember, that to excite the good opinion of the eye, is the first step towards awakening the appetite.
Decoration is much more rationally employed in rendering a plain, wholesome, and nutritious dish inviting, than in the elaborate embellishments which are crowded about custards and trifles.
Not only the health and comfort of the family, but so many other things are, of necessity, intrusted to her discretion, that an honest and frugal cook who knows her business, and conscientiously studies the interest of her employers, deserves every encouragement; and if you are not generous enough to give it to her in money, you invite her to levy contributions on every article confided to her care; and do not be surprised, should she now and then strip your meat of its fat, crib your candles, and cabbage your potatoes, to increase the weight of the grease-pot. Depend upon it, "true self-love and social are the same;" and I am always for giving to those we are obliged to trust, every inducement to be honest, and no temptations to play tricks.
"It is impossible for a cook in large families to attend to her business in the kitchen with any degree of certain perfection, if she is employed in other household concerns. It is a service of such importance, and so diffi cult to perform even tolerably well, that it is sufficient to engross the entire devotion and attention of at least one person. Yet, this is a maxim which is neither generally understood nor admired in some families, where the cook is also expected to be a house servant, and coals arc meted out to her by the quart, and butter by the pat, &c: nevertheless, these unreasonable masters and mistresses are surprised if most of their ragouts, and sauces, etc. are spoiled; and the roasts either burnt up, or not half done; but how can it be otherwise, when the cook is obliged to be the slave of the bell?" etc.
 
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