This section is from the book "The Art Of Cookery Made Easy And Refined", by John Mollard. Also available from Amazon: The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined.
Take the spawn out of live lobsters before they are boiled, bruise it well in a marble mortar, add a little cold water, strain it through a sieve and preserve it till wanted; then boil the lobsters, and when three parts done pick and cut the meat into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan. To the meat of a large lobster add a pound of fresh butter and a pint of water, including a sufficient quantity of the spawn liquor to colour it. Put it over a fire, thicken it with flour and water, keep stirring till it boils, and then season to the palate with anchovie liquor, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. Let it simmer five minutes and skim it.
N.B. In place of the above, the following method may be adopted; - Instead of cutting the meat of the lobster into pieces, it may be pounded in a marble mortar, then rubbed through a tamis cloth, and the pulp put with the other ingredients when the sauce is to be made. [See Anchovie Essence for Fish Sauced]
Blanch the oysters, strain them, and preserve their liquor; then wash and beard them, drain, and put them into a stewpan; then add fresh butter and the oyster liquor free from sediment, some flour and water to thicken it, season to the palate with lemon juice, anchovie liquor, a little cayenne pepper, a spoonful of ketchup if approved, and a bit of lemon peel. When it boils skim it, and let it simmer five minutes.
N. B. Muscles and cockles may be done in like manner.
Boil live shrimps in salt and water for three minutes, then pick, wash, and drain them dry; after which add fresh butter, water, anchovie liquor, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and flour and water to make it of a sufficient thickness, Put the ingradients over a fire, and when it boils skim it, and let the shrimps simmer for five minutes. Or it may be made thus: - When the shrimps are picked, wash the shells, drain them dry, put them into a stew pan, aid a little water, and boil them ten minutes; then strain the liquor to the butter (as above) instead of the water, which will make it of a better flavour. The bodies of lobsters, also, when picked, may be done in like manner for lobster sauce.
Boil for five minutes, with a gill and a half of vinegar, a little scraped horseradish: then strain it, and when it is cold add to it the yolks of two new eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a dessert sponful of flour and water, and a little salt. Whist he ingredients over a fire till the mixture almost boils, and serve it up directly to prevent it from curdling.
Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, add to it three spoonfuls of anchovie liquor, walnut and mushroom ketchups a spoonful of each, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper, a tea spoonful of India soy if approved, a sufficient quantity of flour and water to make it of a proper thickness. Make the mixture boil, and skim it clean.
 
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