This section is from the book "Cookery Reformed: Or The Lady's Assistant", by P. Davey and B. Law.
The best mutton is bred upon downs, which are dry and the grass short; and many are of opinion, that this is best when above five years old, because the flavour is rich and high. However, when mutton is young, it will pinch tender, and the fat will easily part from the lean. The leg of weather mutton, which is best, has a firing which did belong to one of the testicles; and that of ewe mutton an udder : Besides, the grain is closer, parts more easily, and the colour is paler. If mutton is sweet, which you may know by the smell, it is of little consequence how long it is killed, for some will keep a leg of mutton to choose a week or a fortnight, because then it will be more tender aad fuller of gravy. When it is designed for mock-venifon it must be always kept long. Ram-mutton, which is worst, has a rank smell, a close grain, feels tough, and does not rife again when dented by the finger; the fat likewise feels spongy : when a sheep is killed that has the rot, the flesh will be pale, and readily part from the bone. Likewise, if you squeeze it hard, drops of water will appear like sweat; the fat will be of a sickly paleness, inclining to yellow.
To know whether lamb be stale or not, you must mind the eyes of a lamb's-head; if they are plump and lively it is fresh killed; if funk and wrinkled, stale. Likewise smell under the kidney of a hind quarter; if the smell is faint and the knuckle limber, it is stale. In the fore-quarter, when the neck-vein is of an azure blue it is fresh; fresh; but if greenish or yellowish it will soon taint, if it is not already tainted.
All common joints must be roasted at a clear brisk fire. It must be basted when it is laid down, and must be drudged (lightly with a little flour just before it is taken up. If there is too much it will spoil the taste of the meat. The skin must always be taken off a bread of mutton; and some serve a loin in the same manner, roasting it brown without paper. But a saddle, which is two loins, and a chine, which is two necks, must always be paper'd, basting it well while it is roasting, and not forgetting to sprinkle it with salt. A breast of mutton may be roasted in little more than half an hour at a quick fire; a small neck in the same time; a large neck in an hour. A leg of mutton of fix pounds will take an hour; a shoulder the same. A small saddle will take an hour and a half; a leg of nine pounds the same. A leg of twelve pounds will take two hours; a large saddle three, because of the paper. In frosty weather allow a quarter or half an hour more, according to the bigness of the joint.
Direct the butcher to cut the hind-quarter of large fine fat mutton in the same shape as a haunch of venifon; then lay it in an earthen pan, with the backside downwards, and pour a bottle of red wine over it; let it lie twenty-four hours or longer; afterwards put it on the spit, and lay it down before a good quick fire; baste it with the wine that was poured over it, as also with butter all the time it is roasting. It will generally be done enough in an hour and a half. Put some good gravy into one cup, and some sweet sauce into another.
 
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