It is little more than a name for a brown sauce flavored. Take good gravy from the veal or beef pans (No. 576). Put on a spoonful of spices - allspice, cloves and mace - to boil in 1/2 cup of wine and strain it presently into the gravy. Another way that seems to meet the requirement of a good sauce for roast ham, is to add wine and a little sugar to the brown sauce without the spices. The substitute where there is no wine furnished is vinegar, sugar and water in brown sauce - it is good - nothing wrong about it but the name.