This section is from the book "Cooking For Profit", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Cooking for Profit.
This is nothing if not neat, uniform, precise and workmanlike in appearance. There must be a pound of fat bacon for larding, cold and firm, so that it can be cut aright. Cut the slices a quarter inch thick, cut these in lengths of 11/2 inches and then into strips all precisely alike and as thick as a common pencil.
Procure the filet or tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, that is with the coating of suet that covers the upper side of it, and shave that down until the covering of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all over it. Then raise the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the filet, so to speak, and lay the sheet of fat over on the other side without cutting it off. This is to have the sheet of fat attached ready to cover over the filet again after it is larded with strips of bacon. Draw the point of a sharp knife across and across the skin inside the fat, to score it so that it will not draw up in cooking. Trim off the thin end of the filet and round off the thick end. C ommence at the thick end with the larding. Insert a piece of bacon in the end of the larding needle and draw it through the top parts of the meat pinched up with the left thumb and finger for the purpose, one end of the strip of bacon so inserted will be left leaning backward, the other forward, on the surface. Insert 6 or more of these strips in a row across. Begin the next row so that the strips will come alternately between those of the first, and the exposed ends will cross the others, and so continue, with the regularity of stitching cloth, to the other end. Cover the larded filet with the sheet of tat. Make a long and narrow baking pan hot in the oven, with a tablespoonful of salt and a cup of drippings in it, and enough water to keep the bottom from burning. Put in also a slice of turnip, carrot and onion, and a piece of celery. Have the oven hot, put in the filet, and roast it with the fat, covering it half an hour; then take off the fat, baste the filet with the contents of the pan, and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by which time the surface of the meat should be brown, and bacon strips brown too, without being burnt at the ends.
Filets of beef vary in weight and thickness, and the time above given is only a guide to the average. Unless specially ordered otherwise, the thick part of the filet should cut slightly rare in the middle, while the thinner portion is well done.
In carving, the filet should be sliced across vertically because it is a mass of strings of meat lying side by side, and if cut slantingly the slices begin to be stringy and coarse. A filet that is to be braised along with herbs, spices, vegetables, wine, etc., is larded with strips of bacon or fat pork that pass clear through from one side to the other diagonally, so that the slices cut across when done, show the larding all through the meat.
Cost of filet - 4 pounds $1,20, pork 15 (not all used but culled and spoiled), seasonings paid for with drippings; $1.35 for 3 pounds net, or 15 to 20 slices or 7c an order
 
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