This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
A salad of cold cooked vegetables (salade cuite) can be either served with plain, or rich dressing. For the finest of all see the recipe given elsewhere for salade Russe. Sliced potatoes, beetroot, French beans, and cucumber, go well together: while cauliflower and cabbage, both kinds of artichokes, and asparagus points, are admirable with a plain sauce.
Salade a la ma tante is a combination of good things which will commend itself at once to the appreciative reader:- Take six cold boiled or tinned fonds d'artichauts, fill their hollows with cold boiled or tinned pointes d'asperges, cover the surface with cold sliced truffles that have been stewed in champagne or Madeira, and smother each dressed fond with a rich mayonnaise dressing:- serve straight from the ice-box. This should, of course, be classed as an entremets.
The country vegetables I have already alluded to are nice with ordinary salad sauce, or mayonnaise dressing. Choose very young brinjals, boil, and when cold, slice them; bandecais may be plainly arranged in rows; young pumpkins must be sliced, and greens should be slightly boiled and drained. Strips of anchovies, well wiped from their tin oil, may be slipped into these salads with satisfactory results.
The bandecai, Hind : bhindi, if gathered young and boiled till tender makes an excellent salad in this way:- arrange the bandecais on a flat dish placed over some crushed ice. With a dessert-knife slit each one open longitudinally; in the slit put a fillet of anchovy, and over all, pour a little iced salad dressing.
The young shoots or stalks of mollay, Hind, choolaee. boiled, drained, and cut up, make, when cold, a capital salad : use a plain oil and vinegar dressing, and toss some chopped olives, onions, and a minced anchovy among the chopped stalks.
Here is a noble recipe for a mayonnaise a la gouffe for which I have to thank a fair, and most accomplished artiste now in Madras:-
In an oval, or round cylinder-mould placed in ice, pour a very little well made liquid aspic jelly; as soon as it is all but set, dispose neatly therein a number of little balls of green butter, and prawn butter (q. v.) alternately, cover them with some more of the jelly, set them, and repeat the process in layers as it were until the mould is packed, You must ice the balls of butter before you put them in, and alternate them differently in each layer, so that the colours may be checkered. The mould can now be left in ice to consolidate thoroughly. When turned out, you can garnish it externally with balls of the same fancy butters, turned olives, strips of anchovy, and hard-boiled yolks of egg, and pack its hollow centre with the fish, or fowl, of which your mayonnaise is composed. Lettuce leaves culled from the golden heart should crown the centre, and be arranged with some whole boiled prawns in their shells round the margin of the dish outside the mould. The mould of jelly and its sauce should be kept in the ice box till the nick of time before serving, when (in this case) the latter should be poured over the contents in the centre of the mould. For aspic jelly, vide Menu, No. 9.
My up-country readers have only to make their fancy butter from tinned lobster meat, instead of prawns, to turn out just as grand a mayonnaise as this. For fancy butters, please follow me in the next chapter.
 
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