This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
I hesitate to pronounce any opinion upon the metal best adapted for kitchen utensils, for, upon this point different people think differently. Copper is, we all know, universally recommended on account of its durability. You see nothing else in the kitchens of restaurants, clubs, etc., and in all establishments where the demands upon the chef are frequent and elaborate. If treated with ordinary care, no evil should result from its use. Enamelled ironware looks nice when new, but the slightest carelessness destroys the enamel, and when once cracked, it may be considered done for. Plain wrought-iron vessels, tinned, are serviceable, and block tin for certain utensils is not to be despised. The lately introduced grey enamel ware is likewise serviceable, and at the same time light. In my own kitchen, I have a mixed collection which answers its purpose well enough.
With regard to the equipment necessary for an ordinary establishment, I can safely recommend :-
A Warren's cooking pot. 4 Stew-pans of sizes. 6 Sauce-pans assorted. 1 Large sauce-pan with steamer. 1 Iron 3-gallon digester. 1 Braising-pan. 1 Friture-pan (or fryingkettle). 1 Saute-pan.
1 Omelette - pan. 1 Muted gridiron. 1 Tin fish kettle and drainer.
1 Ordinary iron-kettle.
2 Spits of sizes.
1 Bain-marie, capable of holding four or five small sauce-pans.
In addition to this, - the heavy portion of the equipment, - the cook should have :-
3 Iron spoons of sizes.
3 Wooden spoons.
1 Basting ladle.
1 Fish slice.
1 Set of skewers.
1 Set of larding needles.
1 Meat saw.
1 Chopper.
2 Plain pudding moulds.
1 Cake mould.
2 Plain border moulds. 1 Flour dredger.
1 Sugar dredger.
1 Pepper box.
1 Bread grater.
1 Set of vegetable cutters.
1 Disliing-up fork.
2 Common forks.
5 Cook's knives in sizes.
1 Root knife.
1 Mincing knife.
1 Toasting fork.
1 Block tin colander.
2 Tin gravy strainers. 2 Pointed gravy do.
1 Wire sieve.
2 Hair sieves of sizes.
1 Wire frying basket. 3 Jelly moulds of sizes.
2 Border do. of do. 1 Paste jagger.
1 Set of pastry cutters.
1 Dozen patty pans.
1/2 A dozen mince pie pans.
1 Baking sheet.
2 Baking tins.
2 Bread or cake tins.
2 Souffle tins of sizes.
1 Set of freezing utensils complete. 1 Coffee mill.
One mincing machine, and a tin box with divisions for a small supply of pepper-corns, salt, ground pepper, sugar, etc.
A wooden slab, (or marble if you can get one) for pastry, with rolling pin is necessary, and also a pestle and mortar. A stone or iron one is best for India; I have lost two Wedgwood mortars - broken through careless use on a stone-paved floor.
I strongly recommend that every cook should have at least four common earthenware bowls, two of them with lips, for setting stock, gravies, etc., &.c, and it will be found as well to give him a few cheap crockery sundries for exclusive use in his kitchen. If not, portions of your breakfast and dinner sets will find their way to the cook-room, and the list of killed, wounded, and missing will become alarming. I think the following sufficient for a small kitchen: two jugs, two cups and saucers, a wine-glass for measurement, six plates, three soup plates, two large and two small dishes, two small basins, and three wire covers to protect meat, etc., from flies : these articles may obviously be of the commonest ware or of enamelled iron.
A cupboard fitted with a lock and key should be given to the cook for the safe custody of the many small articles I have enumerated, and a set of shelves for his utensils. The cook-room table should be roomy and strong, and to ensure its cleanliness, it should be continually scalded down with boiling water and soda, and well rubbed over with sand paper.
Lastly, no kitchen should be without a clock. A cook of ordinary intelligence can, without difficulty, be taught to mark the progress of the hands, and work by time, rather than by guess-work.
It is hardly necessary, I hope, for me to point out the intense importance of cleanliness in the kitchen, and in all utensils connected therewith. If you cannot go to the kitchen yourself, it is essential that you should hold weekly inspections of all your cooking utensils, which should be spread out on a mat in the verandah for that purpose. Give out washing soda, for you cannot keep things clean without it; and be very particular about the cloths that are used by the cook. There is a horrible taste which sometimes clings to soups, sauces, etc., which a friend of mine specifies as "dirty cloth taste." This is eloquent of neglect, and dirty habits in the kitchen. Sieves will do for many things, but there are some compositions which must be strained through cloths, we cannot, therefore, be too attentive with reference to that part of our kitchen equipment.
For a few remarks concerning our kitchens in India, please turn to the end of the book.
 
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