This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
Dried haricot beans (Soissons) are now procurable in India, a few leading firms having imported them in the bag from France, and America. These vegetables will be found most valuable, for they are very nutritious and wholesome. They must be soaked for at least twelve hours, and then be placed in cold water with a little salt, and gradually boiled. When boiling point has been attained, the vessel should be drawn to the side of the fire, and its contents simmered till they are soft. They should be served with a pat of butter melting among them, a dust of freshly ground black pepper, and salt. Bacon, cut into dice and fried, may be introduced with them or they may be served a la poulette, a la maitre d'hotel, or with brown sauce. When served in brown sauce with a leg of mutton, a sauce soubise accompanying, you have gigot a la Bretonne.
These beans (Lima) are exported from America in cans, already cooked. They can be served as above described.
For country greens, follow the receipts given for spinach, sorrel, endive, and turnip-tops.
A vegetable can always be got in the hot weather called (locally) "mollay" the tender branches or stalks of which are edible, ("mollay-keeray"). Treated as laid down for asparagus, you will find this vegetable worth trying.
Be sure that the stalks are nice and young, cut them into three inch lengths, tie them in bundles, and boil them in boiling salt and water, then drain carefully, and serve them with a nice sharp sauce in a boat; or iced, with cream. The young leaves of this plant can also be dressed as spinach.
Water-cress common on our Hills, and frequently grown in private gardens, can be dressed like spinach, and in that form will be found most tasty.
Young pumkins, "dil-pussund," or marrows, gathered prematurely (when the size of a duck's egg) boiled, and served as described for artichoke bottoms, are exceedingly nice.
Purees of sweet potatoes, and yams, if assisted by cream, are very eatable. Fritters of the former are nice if the slices be marinaded in a little brandy and lime-juice, and then dipped in a well-made batter. Yams may be treated in most of the ways recommended for potatoes.
In short, if we look about us, and try our best to make the most of the vegetables of the country, by careful cookery of the reformed school, we need never be without a pleasant dish to relieve the ding-dong monotony of our market supplies. The more you hunt about amongst the produce of the native gardens, the more surprised you will be at the opportunities afforded you of practising your culinary ingenuity. For over a century we have been contented to see a few country vegetables sent up in curries, and in curries only, never attempting to develop their latent good qualities by artistic treatment.
There are times when the supply of vegetables grown from English seed may fail us, or when we cannot expect to procure them; when on the line of march, for instance, out in the jungles, or when quartered at some little place far from the busy haunts of our fellow white men; the amateur who has studied native vegetables will then discover that his time has not been thrown away.
 
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