This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a party of eight.
Potage a la Brunoise.
Seer a la Napolitain.
Cotelettes de mouton a la Reforme.
Croustades de lapin a la reine.
Entrecote de boeuf a la Chateaubriand.
Salpicon de gibier en caisses.
Tomates au gratin.
Beignets de peches.
"Pudding" glace aux cerises.
Fromage, hors d'oeuvres.
Dessert.
1. - Brunoise is a soup something like Julienne, but of a distinct character on account of the manner in which the vegetables are prepared for it. Make consomme enough for your party. Cut some carrots, turnips and celery into dice: melt a piece of butter in a sauce-pan, add pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar. First put in the dice of carrots and toss them on the fire till they begin to brown, next the celery, and lastly, the turnips with a little chopped onion. Work them all together, and after a few minutes, add some of the consomme: set the sauce-pan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer; during this process the butter will be thrown up to the surface in the form of scum, skim this off very carefully; when clear, add the rest of the consomme, let it come to the boil, and the soup will be ready to serve. A dessert-spoonful of Madeira is enough wine for the whole tureen.
Brunoise soup.
2. - This is a dish of fish au gratin. Divide a good cut of seer fish into slices half an inch thick, and cut them into portions about large enough for each guest. Boil some maccaroni till tender : slice up some nice ripe tomatoes, have your bottle of Parmesan cheese by your side, and a plate upon which you should turn out the mushrooms only (not the gravy) of a tin of black Leicestershire mushrooms. Now, butter a nice sized pie-dish (not too deep in the sides; and arrange the maccaroni on the bottom of it: dust over the maccaroni a little of the Parmesan: now put a Layer of the sliced tomatoes, and arrange your portions of fish thereon with a piece of mushroom between each of them, and a slice of tomato in the centre of each : pour a breakfast-cupful of sauce blonde over all, give a Light surface dressing of Parmesan and bake the dish for about a quarter of an hour. A little pepper and salt should be shaken gently over each layer as you pack the dish. There is so much moisture in the tomatoes, that only a very little white wine Like chablis, hock, or sauterne, or gravy should be added as a finishing touch. The oven should be quite hot.
3 - Set ten nice neck chops, very neatly trimmed, in marinade all day. Towards evening lift them out, wipe them dry, and proceed to bread-crumb them as laid down at page 67. In this case you must mix very finely minced ham with the crumbs at a proportion of half and half. When the time arrives, the cutlets must be very delicately fried in plenty of boiling fat, and served as soon as they reach that bright golden tint 1 have so often mentioned. Place the cutlets round a ring of mashed potato, with puree de pois verts in the centre, sending round in a boat separately a sauce made as follows: -
Seer, Neopolitan fashion.
Reform cutlets.
Put into a sauce-pan, one Bellary onion cut into rings, two sprigs of curled parsley, two ounces of pounded lean ham or bacon, a clove of garlic, a carrot cut up, and a tea-spoonful of thyme leaves; cover them with a pint of Espagnole sauce (page 96) and add two tea-spoonfuls of anchovy vinegar, and one of chilli vinegar. Boil up, simmer for ten minutes, skimming carefully, then boil again reducing the sauce to the thickness of cream: now add a dessert-spoonful of red currant jelly and one of good mushroom ketchup ; stir till the jelly is dissolved, adding half a glass of Madeira; stir again, and pass the sauce through the strainer: keep it hot in the bain-marie, and add just before serving, the following mixture: - the whites of two hard-boiled eggs, four black Leicestershire mushrooms, two gherkins, and half an ounce of lean ham, all chopped up into small dice, and dusted over with white pepper.
-Take eight stale dinner rolls, which have been lightly baked in cylindrical tins about two inches in diameter; cut them so as to leave a case about an inch and a half deep: scoop out every atom of crumb, and trim the tops that you cut off neatly, so as to form a lid for the top of the hollowed rolls. Fry the cases and their lids in butter till of a golden yellow, and set them on one side to dry.
Choose a small rabbit, some tongue ham or lean bacon, a few sweet-breads if you can get them, and have ready some cocks' combs, sliced mushrooms, a little grated lime peel, and a slice of truffle for the top of each croustade. Now remove the fillets from the rabbit's back and divide them into pieces, or cut them with a cutter about the size of a shilling. Put the rest of the rabbit into a stew-pan with the usual vegetables to yield a good broth, and with it make a rich white sauce flavoured with some milk of almonds; butter a sante-pan, and cast into it your pieces of rabbit fillet with some slices of onion and carrot. Fry the rabbit gently, and then add enough gravy to cover the pieces. Stew the contents of the pan carefully. Now pack your croustades exactly like miniature vols-au-vent, with pieces of rabbit, slices, or dice of tongue or ham, the rabbit's kidney, and the other ingredients, cut to fit the cases, moistening the whole well with your creamy veloute : put a slice of truffle on the top of each, and cover it with the cap that you cut to fit it. A few minutes in the oven will bring the croustades to perfection, when they should be quickly served on a napkin, garnished with crisply fried curly parsley. Send round dry toast with this dish.
Bread cases filled with rabbit ragout.
5 -Trim a good joint of the ribs of beef by cutting the tender meat boldly in one long piece from the bones ; the tough flap, can either go into the stock pot, or be set with the bones to produce a good gravy for the joint, the latter for choice. Fold and tie the long piece of meat in shape as best you can (it will look rather like "roly-poly pudding") and preserve all the fat you can find which should be fixed with skewers : lard it with fat bacon, wrap it in buttered paper and tie it to your spit with string. Let it be roasted over a clear fire, and served in thin slices.
Chateaubriand sauce is made in this way: - Add half a tumbler of chablis or sauterne to a half a pint of Espagnole sauce, boil them together and reduce a little : then strain. Boil again, adding off the fire two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter, let it thicken and serve it in a boat as hot as possible. Potatoes, French beans, and a nice salad should accompany.
Ribs of beef with Chateaubriand sauce.
6. - This is an economical dish, for you can use in it the gravy of the mushrooms saved in No. 2, the liver of the rabbit which composed part of No. 4, and the remainder of the bottle of truffles opened for No. 4. Take four snipes and four wild pigeons, or three partridges and three pigeons, or any game you can get. Roast the birds, detach the meat from their breasts and set it aside; take the bones, and scraps, and with them, assisted by half a pint of gravy and the mushroom liquor of No. 2, some lean bacon, chopped onion, spiced pepper, sweet herbs, and grated lime peel, make the strongest game essence you can. Strain, thicken with butter and flour, and reduce this, making the thickest and richest sauce possible : give it assistance with red currant jelly, a glass of red wine, and a little vinegar. Save the livers of the birds, and add that of the rabbit; chop them into dice with some fat bacon, and some finely minced shallot, toss all together in a frying-pan for a few minutes, then turn the contents of the pan into your mortar, and pound them to a paste, mixing with the composition a table-spoonful of truffle trimmings minced small, and some spiced pepper. Now take the breast meat you saved and cut it into dice, pack your well buttered paper or china cases with a mixture of sauce, meat, and the liver paste, dredge some crumbs over the surface of each case, place them in the oven till quite hot, and then serve.
7. - Empty a dozen large tomatoes preserving the cases as well as you can ; stuff them with the following composition: - To the pulp of the vegetable (q. v. page 158) add sufficient bread-crumb to thicken it somewhat, and beat up some eggs in the proportion of one egg to two cases, mix the whole thoroughly, flavour with a couple of pounded anchovies, a tea-spoonful of minced olives, and one of capers.; stuff the cases, dust them over with grated Parmesan, lay them on a well-buttered dish that will stand the oven, and bake for ten minutes just before they are wanted, serving them in their own dish buried in a napkin.
Minced game in cases.
Tomatoes au gratin.
8. - Be very careful with 3-our preparation of the barter for these fritters (page 195) ; cut the peaches (American ones in tin are excellent) into neat pieces; dust them with powdered sugar, and let them lie in a little maraschino, or any nice liqueur till wanted, then dip them in your batter, and fry them in abundance of boiling fat ; drain them on blotting paper, and serve them dusted oyer with pounded loaf sugar, finely sifted. In the ease of raw fruit the peaches cut in halves, peeled, and stoned, should be carefully stewed in syrup with a dash of Liqueur and a little lime juice first, then set to get cold, and after being drained, dipped in batter, etc., as above explained. All fritters should be served without delay.
9 -This iced pudding is similar to that given in Menu No. III substituting cherries for .strawberries. The only difference I would suggest in this: - I would first make a rich custard, retaining the pale yellow colour, and adding the preserved cherries to the partly frozen custard, with a liqueur-glass of kirsch. In all other respects follow the directions given in Menus No. I and III.
Note. - To adapt this menu, braise the entrecote and serve it after the fish, insert pintades or callies an cresson instead of the solpicon en caisses, and save the salad to accompany the rot.
Peach fritters.
Teed pudding with cherries.
 
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