This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a party of eight.
Consomme a la Royale.
Pomfret a la maitre d'hotel.
Filets de pigeon a la Genevoise.
Cotelettes de mouton a la Maintenon.
Dindon a la Perigueux. Jambon au Made re Canapes de becassines.
CEufs aux topinambours.
Bavaroise de cocoa a la moderne.
" Pudding" glace a la Nesselrode.
Fromage, hors d'oeuvres.
Dessert.
1. - This is a bright clear soup into which tablets of consolidated custard are cunningly introduced. Proceed therefore to make consomme for eight covers, and make your custard thus : - mix the yolks of four eggs with a little water and a pinch of salt, strain the mixture, and divide it into three equal portions; colour one wilh cochineal, one with spinach-greening, and leave the third plain : pour them into three little moulds previously buttered, and dip them into a pan of hot water : steam just long enough to set the custards : take them off the fire, and when cold, turn the moulds out on a napkin: cut them up into dice or any pretty shapes with your vegetable cutter as gently as possible, and add them to the soup just before serving. The colouring of the custard is obviously optional. I have found a slight deviation from this receipt very nice, as follows : - mix a small omelette, flavour it with parsley and shallot, and let it set rather more firmly than you would were it required for breakfast : let it get cold, and cut it up for the soup with the vegetable cutter as described for the costard Grated Parmesan should be handed round.
Clear soup with custard tablets.
2. - Divide your pomfret into nice fillets, egg them on one side, and shake over the egg some finely minced curled parsley. Simmer the fillets, neatly rolled up and skewered, in broth made from their own bones and trimmings, and dish them on a hoi dish as soon as they are done. Now melt an ounce of butter in a small sauce-pan, work into it a table-spoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of the liquor in which the fillets were cooked, throw in B table-spoonful of finely chopped curled parsley, and finish the sauce, of the lire, with the yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of a lime: pour over the fillets and serve.
3. - Lightly roast eight young pigeons : slice the breasts of the birds off whole, and place the eight portions so obtained en marinade in oil, vinegar, minced parsley, and shallot. Take the bones, trimmings, livers, etc, and put them into a sauce-pan with a good breakfast-cupful of gravy; simmer this until you have extracted the essence of your pigeon scraps, and then strain it. Now chop up an onion, and one clove of garlic (a sine qua, non) very small: stir a piece of butter the size of an hen's egg at the bottom of a sauce-pan over the fire, and throw in your chopped onion, etc, let it slightly brown, and then add the gravy you previously made, with two or three anchovies chopped into dice, pepper and salt to taste, and the juice of a lime, with one glass of claret. Bring this sauce to boiling point, let it simmer awhile, and then strain it. Replace it in the sauce-pan, thicken it with butter and a little flour, colour it with caramel, and place your six fillets in it to gently heat up without coming to the boil; when quite hot, place the fillets in their dish, pouring the sauce round them and serve, with a crisply fried curl of bacon, between each of them. Petits pois verts should fill the centre of the dish.
Pomfret, maitre d'hotel fashion.
Fillets of pigeon with Genevoiae sauce.
4. - Put eight nicely trimmed choplets of mutton into a stew-pan with some scraps of bacon, onion, carrot, dried herbs, pepper, salt, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, with a pint of good gravy, and a glass of sherry, and gently stew the little chops till done. Now lay them out on a large dish, covered by another with a weight upon it; when quite cold, trim them finally into shape if necessary. Meanwhile strain the gravy in which they were stewed, remove all fat, and set it on one side. Now mince an onion very small, and a few capers, with two or three truffles also. Fry the onions a golden brown, add the minced capers and truffles with pepper, salt, and a spoonful of chopped parsley, moisten with a little of the gravy, thicken it with a couple of eggs, and then put the mince away to get cold: cut some papers for your cutlets and oil or butter them: now spread your cold thick mince over your cutlets liberally, roll them, or rather fold them in their papers most carefully, and broil them on the grid-iron sufficiently long to heat them thoroughly; - or if preferred, they can be just as well heated in the oven. Serve your cutlets in their papers, and let a rich sauce be handed round in a boat made of the remains of the gravy originally got from the cooking of the cutlets, slightly thickened with butter and flour, flavoured with red currant jelly, anchovy vinegar, and a spoonful of sherry, all judiciously applied.
Mutton cutlets a la Maintenou.
The "Maintenon cutlets" may be placed round a ring of niashed potatoes filled with celery puree.
5. - Choose a nice turkey, prepare the bird for roasting, stuffing it very carefully as directed at page 109. Let sauce Perigueux, (page 97) steaming hot, be passed round in a boat, cauliflower, and potatoes accompanying.
6.- Directions for boiling a ham with Madeira will be found at page 117. If you are able to obtain a few nice slices of a good, well-boiled ham, I may mention (as an economical hint) that tossed in butter in a frying-pan, with a table-spoonful of Madeira, the sliecs will do very well to accompany the turkey, but take care that they pass from the pan to the plate, so to speak, - as hot as possible.
7. - Slightly roast eight snipes ; fillet them as you did the pigeons, saving the trails ; make the richest sauce you can of the bones, moistened with stock and helped up with vinegar, red currant jelly, and a little sherry. Now prepare eight pieces of fried bread for the eight breasts, butter them, and spread the trails over them ; pepper and salt them; place a breast of snipe upon each trail toast, bake till quite hot, and just before serving, pour your thick rich sauce, reduced almost to a glaze, over them: let crisply fried bread-crumbs surround your toasts. Use Nepaul pepper.
8. - For this entremets turn to page 239. Prepare the eggs as laid down for "CEufs farcis" page 238, and be sure that the dish is served quite hot.
9. - Melt three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine in a stew-pan over the fire, with half a pound of sugar, a pint of water, a liqueur-glass of brandy or sherry, and a few drops of vanilla essence; strain it through a tamis cloth till clear, and set it to get cool.
Boast turkey with Perigueux sauce.
Ham with Madeira.
Baked fillets of snipe on toast.
Eggs with Jerusalem artichokes.
Bavarian cream with cocoa.
Take one ounce of cocoa powder, and stir it into a pint of boiling milk, adding two ounces of sugar; when thoroughly mixed, strain the milk through a piece of muslin. Let it get quite cold, and then add to it the strained yolks of eight eggs, making therewith a rich custard. Set the custard upon ice, having stirred an ounce of dissolved gelatine into it, and when it begins to set, add a coffee-cupful of whipped cream, mix thoroughly, and prepare the Bavaroise as follows : - place a mould on ice and pour into it a layer of the vanilla jelly half an inch thick, when set, pour in about an inch of the cream, then a layer of jelly when the cream has set, and so on until the mould is filled. Serve after it has rested on ice for an hour.
10. - Nesselrode pudding ought properly to be made of chestnuts, but as we can rarely get them at Madras, I think we may supply their place with almonds, and make our pudding in this way: - Blanch and peel a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds (shelled) and two bitter ones. Put them into a stew-pan with a pint of syrup flavoured with vanilla. Simmer till the almonds are soft, then drain them, pound them in a mortar, and pass them through a fine sieve. Put ten yolks of eggs with a quarter of a pound of sugar into a pint and a half of cream (or good milk), stir over the fire till the custard thickens, then add the almond puree, strain it into a bowl, whip it, and give the liquid a glass of maraschino. Stone two ounces of raisins, pick and wash two ounces of currants, and cut up two ounces of citron, cook them in the syrup saved from the almonds, drain and let them get cool. Now freeze the custard, and work it with the spatula; when partly frozen, add a breakfast-cupful of whipped cream, and when the cream is nearly set, work in the raisins, currants and citron : now close the mould, and bury it in ice for a couple of hours.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Observe that Nesselrode pudding is not served inside a cake, or finger-biscuit case.
Note. - To adapt this menu, introduce a Filet de bceuf a l'Italienne (page 189) after the fish, cut out the canapes de becassines, and substitute flageolets a la creme as an entremets de legume with the rot. A hen turkey (dinde) may be served instead of the cock-bird, and a nice salad must, of course, accompany.
Green butter with herring- roes
Make a quarter of a pound of fresh butter from cream that yon have Bet at home, and put it in ice : boil a handful of spinach till tender, and then pass it through the sieve : save the pulp carefully and give it a dust of pepper. Take the roes (soft) of two herrings a la sardine from the tin, wipe them carefully to get rid of the oil, then pound them, in a mortar, and pass them through the hair sieve. Mince very finely a large bunch of curly parsley, so as to have at least a heaped up table-spoonful of it when minced ; mince a dozen capers, and then mix the whole of the ingredients together with a wooden butter bat, and shape it as you like, setting it again in ice till wanted. There are numerous varieties of "green butter": this recipe has, however, been proved to be a nice one, and will be found useful when anchovies in oil may happen to be unobtainable.
 
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