This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a party of eight.
Potage a la tortue clair.
Seer aux champignons,
Crepinettes de volatile truffees.
Petite pates de lieyre a La financiere
Filet de boeuf aux haricots verts
Pluviera en caisses.
Bouchees d'epinards.
Chaud-froid de fruits.
"Pudding" glace a l'ambigu.
Fromage, hors d'ceuvres.
Dessert.
1.- This soup, which is simply the ordinary mock-turtle not thickened, is to my mind the nicer form of the two; tastes vary however, so I shall describe both methods. First, for the clear: -Procure the stock meat as usual, and either half an ox-head unskinned, or a sheep's head (a calf's head is the proper thing, but we must deal with fact, not fiction, knowing that we cannot get veal here), well, - clean the head thoroughly, keeping the skin on, and scalding it to get rid of the hair or wool: remove every atom of brain> and wash the meat in several waters, set it to soak awhile in cold water, and then place it in your soup kettle; cover it with water and let it simmer slowly for an hour, skimming all fat, and scum that may rise: take it up (it will be about half done), remove the bones and set it, with a weight upon it, on a dish to flatten and get cold. Now throw your shin, etc, into the soup kettle, adding to the cold head liquor already there, the bones just removed, sufficient cold water to cover the bone and meat completely and an ounce of salt. Proceed now as for consomme skimming very carefully, and retarding the boiling point as much as you can by periodical additions of water : when boiling takes place, ease off the fire, and add two Bombay onions in quarters, a head of celery, a couple of carrots, the rind of two limes, a large bunch of parsley, a quarter ounce of dried basil, (sold in bottles) a tea-spoonful of dried thyme, and of marjoram, (the herbs in a muslin bag) a dozen pepper corns, two anchovies cut up, half a wine-glass of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a tea-spoonful of caramel. Simmer slowly now for about three hours, skimming the surface occasionally, and on no account permitting the vessel to boil. Now strain very carefully, and set the soup in a bowl to cool and throw up all grease. Cut the cold head into one-and-a-half-inch squares, skim the cool soup well, and pour it into a large sauce-pan adding the pieces of head. Let the pieces cook slowly for half an hour, then drain them, and again strain the soup: clarify it if necessary adding a glass of Madeira, and the juice of a lime. Let this be heated up finally when required, and pour the soup into the tureen over a dozen or so carefully selected pieces of the head arranged therein. Serve, with limes cut into quarters, which should be handed round followed by the Madeira. The basil is most necessary, and the whole success of the soup depends upon strict attention to the flavouring herbs and ingredients. Select gelatinous, not meaty pieces, for the garnish.
Clear mock-turtle.
For the thick: - Go back to the period when you strained the soup and set it to get cool. Take a large sauce-pan, and melt at the bottom of it three ounces of good butter, mix into it three ounces of flour, when it looks nice and velvety, gently add the soup, stirring it in by cupfuls. Put into it the pieces of head, a glass of Madeira, and the juice of a lime. Let the soup come to the boil to thicken properly, and let it simmer slowly immediately afterwards, constantly stirring to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the pan. When ready (which you will decide by testing the meat) you can add a little more Madeira if you find it needed, ami serve.
Some people make small forcemeat balls of hard-boiled eggs pounded with some parsley, pepper, salt, spice, flour, and a raw egg; or of chicken, with a little ham or tongue, savoury herbs, crumb of bread ami eggs; these they poach in gravy, and add to the soup when serving. I think however that the soup costs trouble enough without them, and, so many people misunderstand what they are, that making forcemeat balls is often lost labour.
2. - Choose a good deep cut of seer fish. Take about a pint of thin brown gravy, a little onion, a carrot cut up, a bit of celery, and some parsley; flavour it with a table-spoonful of chablis or sauterne, and one of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of red currant jelly, and a little lime juice : stew the fish in this liquor very gently. When done, strain it, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, adding a dozen "black Leicestershire" mushrooms; heat up without boiling, and serve.
3. - Roast a fair sized fowl, protecting the breast from burning by a buttered paper; when cold, carve the bird carefully, picking off all the white meat you can; remove the skin from these pieces and put them aside. Break up the carcass, and throw it, with all fragments of skin and bone, and the giblets of the fowl previously saved, into a sauce-pan, with as much stock as will cover the whole : add two onions, a clove of garlic, a carrot, sweet herbs, pepper, and salt, and simmer the contents of your pan as long as you can, finally adding half a glass of sherry, and bringing the broth to the boil. Now strain it, remove all fat that may rise, and reduce the sauce a little; thicken it with butter and flour, take it off the fire, and stir in the yolks of two eggs beaten up with the juice of a lime. Let the sauce get cold. Next slice up four good sized truffles and toss the slices in a frying-pan in some melted butter, adding a liqueur-glass of Madeira, and a little stock; when the liquor boils, stop, and pour the contents of the pan into a bowl.
Thick mock-turtle.
Seer with mushrooms.
Crepinettos of fowl truffled.
Make one or two very thin pancakes, cut out of them eight pieces, five inches long and four wide, and put them aside. Now make the nicest mince you can of the cold fowl, diluting it with the cold sauce, and adding the liquor in which the truffles were cooked. Stir in a raw egg as it leaves the fire and let it get cold. Spread the pieces of pancake on a big dish and cover each of them with some very thinly sliced cooked bacon; dot over the bacon the cooked truffles, on the centre of each lay a good table-spoonful of the mince, fold the pancakes over, fix them with white of egg, bread-crumb, and bake them a pale brown on a well buttered dish. Serve upon a napkin.
 
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