This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
For a dinner of six.
Consomme de grandcs crevettes. Filets de pomfret sauce au persil.
Croustades de foie gras.
Chapon braise au puree de navets.
Ortolans des Indes.
Bandecai au gratin.
Petits "puddings" angeliques.
Fromage, hors d'oeuvres.
Cafe noir.
1. - Prepare your ordinary beef consomme from your daily allowance of soup meat. Boil a dozen good-sized prawns, save the liquor in which you have cooked them, reduce that a little, and throw into it the meat which you pick from the shells, and the shells pounded; add the beef consomme, some pepper corns, a dessert-spoonful of dried basil tied up in a muslin bag, a bunch of parsley, and some celery leaves : let this simmer gently, strain after three hours' simmering, clarify it, and add half a glass of Madeira. Quenelles of the prawn meat may be used as garnish.
2. - Cook the fillets in milk as I have described (page 81): or, if you cannot spare the milk, trim your fillets, tie them in little knots, and simmer them in a liquor made from the bones and trimmings of the fish they were cut from, flavoured with a few vegetables. Make a melted butter sauce diluted with the broth in which your fillets were boiled, and add to it a table-spoonful of finely minced parsley, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar : an onion should be boiled in the water with the fillets, and pressed into the sauce through the sieve.
Clear prawn soup.
Fillets of pomfret with parsley sauce.
3. - Choose six or eight nice rolls that have been baked in small round tins : scoop out the crumb, and make hollow cases of them, then fry them a golden yellow in butter. Open a small tin of pdte de foie gras, and make a cupful of thick Espagnole sauce (brown gravy). Proceed to pack your cases in this way : - first butter them, then fill them neatly with foie gras, pouring some gravy round the layers to moisten them, put a curl of crisply fried bacon on the top of each croustade, bake them till quite hot, and dish upon a napkin.
4. - Prepare a well fed capon as if for boiling, cutting off all superfluous bones, the pinions, neck, and legs below the joint, which, with the heart, gizzard, and liver (the giblets), throw into as much water as will cover them ; adding a carrot and an onion sliced, and some whole peppers. Whilst this is producing a broth, stuff, and lard the capon with strips of fat bacon, and fill the cavity of its carcass with a couple of sweet onions. When your broth is ready, choose a deep stew-pan, and place the bird therein, with a carrot cut into slices, celery leaves and stalks, two onions, pepper corns, a bunch of parsley, some dried thyme in a muslin bag, and a glass of sherry. Braise the bird in this till done: - Meanwhile pound the liver you boiled in the broth, and get ready some tomato pulp (say) a tea-cupful. Lift out the capon, and dish it upon some previously boiled maccaroni: strain off the gravy in which it was braised, thicken it, add the liver, and tomato pulp, give it a rapid boil up, and pour it over the bird. The stuffing of the capon helps to preserve its juiciness, and lends a nice flavour to it. Serve with puree of young turnips, and potatoes d la maitre d'hotel.
Bread cases with foie gras.
Braised capon with turnips.
5. - The ortolan of India is, I think, the "cholum bird" which is easily procurable late in the year. Truss the cholum birds, put a slice of bacon inside them, wrap a vine leaf round each bird and a piece of bacon over the vine leaf : tie the leaf and bacon in their place with a tape. Roast over a brisk fire, serving each little bird on a square of hot buttered toast, garnished with water cress, 'sauce bigarade' should go round in a boat.
Butter a small pie-dish liberally, then fill it with the pulp and seeds of some well boiled, tender bandecais : dust the pulp with white pepper, and some grated cheese and pour a little milk in which the yolk of an egg has been beaten (or cream if you can allow it) in amongst the pulp, dust a layer of cheese over the surface, and bake for ten or twelve minutes ; or the bandecai mixture can be baked in coquille shells, which should be served on a napkin.
7. - One ounce of flour, one ounce of bread crumbs, any essence to flavour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter melted in half pint of milk, and two eggs, well beaten up.
Mix well: bake in small, buttered patty-pans till browned, then turn them out, and serve on a napkin, powdered sugar dusted over all, and sauce a la Royale in a boat.
Indian ortolans.
Bandecai au gratin.
Augellpuddings.
 
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