Old peas may be stewed (petits pais accommodes) thus :- Put a lump of butter into a stew-pan with a Bombay onion sliced, a bunch of mint and parsley, and a tea-spoonful of salt; cook this awhile till the onions take a pale colour, and then add the peas, with as much broth as will just float them: simmer this patiently till the peas are thoroughly tender, then take up the pan, strain the liquor, spread out the peas on a dish and pick out the pieces of onion; now thicken the liquor with butter and flour, adding a tea-spoonful of sugar, and lastly, the peas again: stir well, bring the sauce-pan to steaming point, and serve.

But, after all, there is no way of turning old peas to a satisfactory account as good as the puree. For this, boil them as previously described, and then work them through the sieve. When you have got them through, add butter, a little black pepper, salt, a very little sugar, with a spoonful of cream or good milk, and serve in a small mould.

The flavour of lettuce is strongly recommended by some writers as a help to peas, and onions are also advocated. The lettuce should be shred, and put in with the peas to start with, and the onion should go in whole, both being removed when the peas are served. A slice of fat bacon is a capital thing to slip in with "jugged peas."

Peas form a favorite entremets alone; they should be, of course, carefully dressed, and served as hot as possible. The following styles are recommended :-

1. "Petits pois au beurre" - boiled, or jugged peas, served with a pat of fresh butter melted in a small saucepan, and mixed with them at the last moment.

2. "A la crime" - a coffee-cupful of boiling cream poured over them just as you serve.

3. "Au jambon," - finely minced ham, tossed in "butter and lightly fried, mixed with boiled, or jugged peas.

4. "Au lard," - the same method, using bacon instead of ham. The bacon atoms should be nice and crisp.

5. The "puree," previously described.