This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
Waxy potatoes, pressed through the sieve, and served like vermieelli, - a favorite dish of Ramasamy's, - ought to be most strenuously interdicted.
There is perhaps no nicer way of serving potatoes with chops, steaks, grilled chicken, roast pigeons, etc., than in the form of "chips," i.e., Pommes de terre frites. An invalid, as a rule, takes a fancy to a potato thus plainly cooked, and it is a quicker way of doing it than by any of the other recipes.
In the first place, after washing the potatoes well, peel them, and slice them carefully a uniform thickness - about half that of a rupee say - and spread them on a clean cloth to get rid of the moisture. Wipe them thoroughly, and spread a sheet of blotting paper ready for draining the chips hereafter. Now, dissolve a goodly allowance of beef dripping (or whatever you use for your frying medium) in your friture-pan, or a shallow stew-pan; when quite boiling, drop in your potato slices - there should be enough fat to completely cover them - and let them, as it were, boil therein : watch them as they are cooking narrowly, turning and moving them about continually, and as soon as they assume the golden tint you want, - a nice rich yellow, mind, - lift them quickly from the fat, and let them drain on the blotting paper for a minute or two. When quite dry, turn them into a very hot silver dish (or garnish the dish, with which they are to go, with them) and serve.
The main points to note here are, first the equal thickness of the slices, for if cut both thick and thin, the latter will be done more quickly than the former, and it is no easy thing to fish out the pieces that have taken colour from those that have not. Drying the chips well is essential number two, plenty of fat the third, and careful drainage when done the fourth.
Pommes de terre frites may be trimmed into various shapes, - filberts, dominoes, long narrow strips, etc., and cooked exactly as "chips." Uniformity in size is again necessary, and careful wiping before cooking. The cook must be a bit of an artist too in designing his patterns, or there will be sad waste in the cutting.
A set of French vegetable cutters will be found most useful and economical for trimming purposes.
Ignorant cooks are apt to confound "potato chips," with "fried potatoes:" this should be explained away. "Fried potatoes," Pommes de terre sautees, are slices of boiled potato tossed about in butter in the saute-pan till lightly coloured. The "chips," Pommes de terre frites, are thin slices of raw potato absolutely boiled in fat in the friture-pan.
"Mock new potatoes"make a nice dish for a change, and can be contrived out of a waxy tuber that refuses to be boiled flourily. Boil the potatoes as usual, and when nearly done, cut them into pieces the shape and size of a pigeon's egg : make a flour and butter sauce blanche slightly flavoured with mace, and put the pieces of potato into it. Simmer the potatoes in the sauce, and when thoroughly done, serve. Chopped parsley, a coffee-cupful of milk in which the yolk of an egg has been stirred, and a lump of butter, may be added at the last moment.
 
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