This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
You can fill up these pies in many ways, here are a few receipes :-
(a.) With mutton, a plain pie :- Choose a first class neck of mutton, cut the meat from the bones in one piece, divide that into slices an inch thick, and cut them into squares as for a dry curry, keeping the fat and lean separate : if the neck be a lean one, a few pieces of nice kidney fat from the loin may be taken to assist the pie : thoroughly season the meat, when it is cut up, with salt, black pepper, and a table-spoonful of chopped curled parsley, - nothing else upon any account. With this the pie should be packed, as closely as possible, in alternate layers of fat and lean. Unlike ordinary pies, in this case you must not pour in any gravy with the meat: the chief thing is the close arrangement of the meat: if put in loosely the outside pieces will be dry and leathery. "When satisfactorily filled, put on the oval cover, cement the edges with white of egg, and pinch them together firmly, brush the top over with a well-beaten egg, and bake the pie in a slow oven. While baking, yon can simmer the bones and trimmings of the neck, with a couple of sheep's feet cleaned and cut up, and make a clear yet strong broth; this, when cold, should solidify as jelly; flavour it with pepper and salt, and after the pie has been baked, pour a little of it through an opening in the top of the cover. Set the pie in the ice-box, and when quite cold, serve.
(b.) With pork, when you can get it clean-fed as on the Hills, the process is similar to that just explained: choose the neck, and omit the parsley: the seasoning for pork pies is composed of black pepper and salt only, the proportion being two-thirds of the latter to one of the former. Receipts that mention sage, etc., are incorrect. Pack the pieces of meat as closely as you can, and bake the pie very slowly: a little liquid jelly made from pettitoes and pork scraps may be poured in after the baking, but no gravy should be added before that operation.
(c.) With game. If made with game, the birds should be boned, and some pieces of chopped bacon should be introduced here and there. Season with spiced pepper, and pour some liquid jelly (made from the bones, trimmings, and a couple of sheep's feet) into the pie after it has been baked. A liver and bacon forcemeat (vide page 70) is also necessary.
For a specially good game-pie, proceed as follows :-
Bone two partridges, two quails, and four snipes, and cut out the back fillets of a good hare; give the meat a dusting of spiced pepper, and cover it up. Next make a forcemeat as follows :- Take the livers of the birds and that of the hare, and mince them finely; mince the spare meat of the hare, and a quarter of a pound of ham, and throw the whole of the mince into a frying-pan, in which half a pound of fat bacon cut into dice has been tossed with a finely chopped shallot. Work the mince about for ten minutes, then empty the contents of the frying-pan into a mortar, and pound the mixture to a paste. Now cut eight fine truffles into dice the size of a pea, melt an ounce of butter in the frying-pan, and throw in the truffles; toss for a couple of minutes, and add a claret-glassful of Madeira; let the dice boil in this, and then pour them with the liquor into a bowl. You can now pack the pie as follows:-
Spread a layer of liver paste over the inside of each bird, put a spoonful of truffles upon it, and roll the bird Dp; cut the hare into slices, and treat them in the same way : next put a layer of the liver paste over the bottom of the pie, dot it over with truffles, arrange the rolls of hare meat over that, spread some liver paste over them, a few truffles, and some thin slices of fat bacon : next arrange a layer of snipe, and continue until the pie is tightly filled; cover the topmost layer with fat bacon, sprinkled over with marjoram leaves, cover the pie closely and bake. When done, pour into it a little very strong jelly (liquefied) made of the bones and trimmings of the game, two sheep's feet, and the truffle liquor.
It must be here observed that raised pies should not be made during the hot weather; unless eaten immediately they soon turn sour; but they will be found capital on the Hills, at Bangalore, and on the plains during the cold season.
Savoury Puddings, though homely, and perhaps hardly to be recommended for dinner parties, are, in their way, not to be despised. The best paste for them, I think, is one made as follows :- Chop very finely six ounces of clarified suet, and dredge a little flour over it as you mince it. Mix with it one pound of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to make a smooth, pliant paste. Roll it out, and it will be ready for use. A basin is the best thing to use for the boiling : rub it well with butter, line it with the paste rolled at least half an inch thick, close over the top securely, tie the basin up with a cloth, and steam the pudding slowly for three hours. To ensure success, a pudding cannot be too slowly boiled.
A really excellent beefsteak pudding can be made by preparing the beef as laid down for pies, viz. :-
Cut the meat into thin collops, place a thin slice of cold cooked bacon over each collop, season this with spiced pepper, and roll each collop up. Line the pudding basin with paste, and fill it with layers of collops, pour in among the collops a little strong gravy, close the paste securely and boil for three hours.
For beefsteak and oyster pudding, roll an oyster inside each collop. For beefsteak and kidney, cut the kidney into strips and treat them in the same way, rolling slices of kidney and bacon inside each collop.
Excellent puddings are made with birds, boned, and rolled up with a slice of bacon, and any nice stuffing, inside them. Take a brace of partridges, for instance, and bone them, lay them out flat, putting a few thin slices of cooked bacon over them, over that strew some chopped mushrooms, their livers chopped, a little minced shallot, and a good dusting of spiced pepper; roll the birds up and put them into the pudding basin, pour in a little rich gravy made from their bones, etc., close the paste over them, and boil for three hours. This is obviously practicable with any game.
 
Continue to: