This section is from the book "Culinary Jottings", by Wyvern. Also available from Amazon: Culinary Jottings.
Hard-boiled eggs make a very eatable toast in this way :- Grate a coffee-cupful of corned beef, bacon-lean, or ham; cut four hard-boiled eggs into eight pieces each; mix a good sauce blanche rather thickly, flavour it with a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and slip into it, so as to get thoroughly hot, the cut up eggs; when steaming, pour the contents of your sauce-pan over four nicely fried squares of bread, dust the grated beef over their surfaces and serve at once.
The happy owners of dairies to whom cream is not an extraordinary luxury should try :-
"Roties des aeufs a la creme" which are simply poached eggs served upon crisply fried toasts, with thick boiling cream poured over them.
Woodcock toast is one of the most recherche of all savoury entremets of this class. Numerous recipes are given for it, and its name is distorted by many writers upon cookery, some of whom present it to their readers under the meaningless title of "Scotch-Woodcock." In its unpretending form this toast is exceedingly like one I have already given, viz. :- a better kind of anchovy toast with an egg-cream custard top-dressing, but real "Woodcock-toast" should be composed as follows:-
Take two freshly boiled fowl's livers, - [those of a goose, a turkey, or a couple of ducks, are better still, while the remains of a pate de foie gras are superlatively the best] - pound the liver to a paste, mixing with it a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, or the flesh of one fish pounded, a pinch of sugar, plenty of fresh butter, and the yolk of one raw egg; dust into it a little spiced pepper, pass it through the sieve, and set it aside on a clean plate. Prepare four squares of golden-tinted, crisply-fried, bread, about half an inch thick, spread the liver paste over them and set them in a moderate oven to retain their heat, but not to burn. Now, pour a coffee-cupful of good cream into a sauce-pan, which must either be dipped into a bain-marie, or placed over a very low fire indeed; stir into it, as it warms, the carefully strained yolks of two raw eggs, continue stirring one way till the cream thickens nicely and is quite hot (without boiling) and pour it over your toasts : the egg whites (whisked by an assistant to a stiff froth whilst you were heating and thickening the cream) should be laid on the top of all, and the dish sent up without delay.
Or the preparation may be slightly varied as follows:- Fry the toasts, butter them, and set them in a moderate oven to keep hot. When heating the cream, stir into it the liver-paste as well as the raw yolks of two eggs, and pour it over the toasts as soon as it is quite hot, and thickened sufficiently, capping your dish with the whisked whites.
Kidney toast is generally far from being considered a very dainty one. Let me suggest two methods, one with the kidneys au naturel, the other made with those which you can cut out of a cold roast saddle :-
(a) - Take four ordinary kidneys, and blanch them first of all in scalding water (as recommended in Menu No. 23) then lift them out, and dry them in a cloth. Make a strong broth or gravy out of any bones or scraps you may have, and stew the kidneys therein till they are nice and tender, then take them out, drain them, and pour the gravy in which they were cooked into a bowl. Now, cut up and pound the kidneys to a paste in your mortar with some butter, and pass it through your sieve. When ready, skim any grease that may have risen to the top of your gravy, and take a medium-sized sauce-pan, working as follows :- Melt a dessert-spoonful of butter at the bottom of the sauce-pan, stir into it a dessert-spoonful of flour, when creamy, add by degrees a breakfast-cupful of the gravy and lastly, kidney-paste until all is expended : flavour the puree, with one table-spoonful port wine, one tea-spoonful red currant jelly, one dessert-spoonful anchovy vinegar, and a few drops of chilli vinegar. Let the contents of your sauce-pan thicken properly by coming to the boil, and then pour the puree over four squares of hot fried toast. Let there be no delay in serving. If made exactly in this way, this toast will be found an excellent one.
(b) - Cut the kidneys out of the cold saddle, together with all the fat belonging to them; chop up as much fat as there is of kidney meat for the toast, and throw the remaining fat, freed from all burnt skin, etc., into your fryiug-pan: now, fry in the melted fat a large round of bread till it turns a golden yellow, and has sucked up a good deal of the fat. Take it out, place it on a flat silver dish, cover its surface with the chopped pieces of kidney and the fat that you saved, pour the remaining melted fat over it, divide it into portions, and put it in the oven. When quite crisp, and 'short,' serve straightway without tear. Mustard, Nepaul pepper, and salt, should accompany, and hot plates should be placed before each guest.
Savoury toast made of the remains of cold roast game are delicious. Teal, wild-duck, snipe, quails, and florican; young pea-fowl, spur-fowl, jungle-fowl, and even partridges, may be thus presented a second time, forming a kind of rechauffe which rarely fails to be appreciated. The method of preparing a game-toast is somewhat similar to that 1 have described for "kidney toast" (a). The cold meat should be picked from the bones, and pounded with a Little butter to a paste : the skin and bones (well mashed) should be Bet to make a good, strong, game-flavoured gravy wherewith to form a thick puree in conjunction with the pounded meat, the process of blending which is precisely the same as that mentioned in the recipe previously alluded to. Pour the puree over hot fried toasts, and serve without hesitation.
All purees of game composed for toasts should be mixed rather thickly so as to rest upon the toast, and not spread all over the dish. Nepaul pepper, and quarters of limes, should be handed round with them.
I have already said that spinach, and other delicate greens - worked up in the form of purees - were very nice if served upon anchovy toast. They make capital toasts alone. A well made puree of spinach laid upon a crisply fried, and well buttered toast, is decidedly good; a poached egg, or a layer of "buttered eggs," can be added, of course, with additional effect.
 
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