This is of two kinds, brown and white, and is the foundation of many sauces, and although very simple requires the greatest attention in making, and should always be kept in readiness for use.

Brown Roux

Melt some butter very slowly, stir into it browned flour - which is easily made by laying a quantity of fine flour on a dish before the fire, or in a moderate oven, till it is of a fine even brown, not too dark; add as much to the butter as will make it the thickness of paste, stirring well with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes till it is of a yellowish brown colour. This must be done gradually, with care and patience; if the fire is too hot it will become bitter and spoil everything it is put into; when cold it should be thick enough to cut with a knife. It will keep a fortnight.

White Roux

Melt some good fresh butter slowly and stir into it the best sifted flour till like a thin firm paste; stir it well over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, taking care it does not brown. This is used for thickening white sauces. Pour it into jars to keep for use.

Clear Gravy Of Veal For Sauces

Lay in the bottom of a stew a small slice of fat bacon; on that place four pounds of leg of veal, a slice of raw ham, two onions, two carrots, and some parsley; add three spoonfuls of stock, cover it close, set it upon a slow fire, till it becomes dry and brown. Take the greatest care it does not burn, and move the pan round frequently that it may not colour more in one part than another. Pour in four quarts of stock, and let it simmer for half an hour, and strain through a lawn sieve. It should be a fine amber colour, and as clear as possible.

Brown Gravy For Sauces

Cut eight pounds of the lean part of a knuckle of veal into small pieces, with two pounds of lean ham, and if you have an old fowl you may add it. Put all in a stew-pan, with one ounce of butter, three onions, two carrots, eight mushrooms, one head of celery, one parsnip, a blade of mace, and a quarter of a pint of water or stock. Let it stew slowly, with the cover on the pan, till it catches at the bottom, then add four quarts more water or stock, let it boil gently, and strain it.

Cullis, Or Brown Sauce

Put six pounds of lean veal, cut in slices, and two pounds of raw lean ham into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, a handful of chopped mushrooms, three onions, one carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, the rind of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of mixed allspice, clove, and mace. Let it just brown at the bottom, then add four quarts of good brown gravy, and let it boil three or four hours; strain it off, thicken it with brown roux, and boil it well for ten minutes, stirring all the time, then pass it through a tammy.

Bechamel, Or White Sauce

Chop two pounds of veal and one pound of ham in small pieces, a dozen of mushrooms and two onions sliced, four cloves, two blades of mace, a sprig of thyme and marjoram, and a quarter of a pound of butter; add three pints of white gravy, and let all stew gently one hour and a half. Mix some of the gravy with two teacupfuls of flour, and add it to a quart of cream. Put this into your stock, let it boil a quarter of an hour, stirring it well that it may not burn at the bottom; strain, and season with salt.