In this chapter we consider entrees in which the principal ingredient is a solid piece of meat or fish or the whole of a small object, as an oyster or crab. When pieces of meat or fish are selected, they should be trimmed to a uniform shape and size and all unedible portions discarded. When the whole of a chicken is to be used, separate it into pieces for serving at the joints, and discard those having but little flesh and rough bones. Chops with the rib bone left in are also included in this list. It is well to remember, however, that as a rule the choicest entrees are those in which no bone or other unedible portion is found, and also that anything as large as a joint of a chicken is a rather substantial entree. Such dishes are included in these recipes as they are eminently suited to little dinners in which an entree is served in place of the roast. In using a fillet of beef or a boned loin of lamb, remove skin and fat, leaving nothing but solid meat to be cut into the shapes specified. The fillet is usually cut crosswise of the grain, and often a little on the slant or bias.

Boned loin of lamb, from which the flank has been taken up to the eye of tender meat, may be cut into pieces (rounds) called noisettes and served after the recipes given for tournedos of beef.

When the breast of a chicken is removed from the bones, with the first joint of the wing attached to each side, and the flesh separated into two pieces on the line over the breast bone, two chicken cutlets are secured. Each cutlet is made up of two fillets which separate naturally. One fillet is large and one small. For most dishes in which cutlets are used the whole cutlet comprises a single service, thus quite young chickens should be selected. When the breast is removed without the wing joint, and the large fillet is cut into slices, the shape and thickness of the small fillet, plump young pullets should be selected.

Great neatness must be shown in the cutting of fillets, tournedos and noisettes of meat.

I. Sea Food

Cabbage Tartare

Remove the center from a small, hard head of cabbage, to leave a thin shell. Chop the cabbage fine; add enough sauce tartare to hold the cabbage together, and use to fill the bowl or shell. Finish with four stoned olives.

Philadelphia Relish

1 pint of cabbage (chopped very fine) 2 green or red peppers ½ teaspoonful of salt

¼ cup of brown sugar

¼ cup of vinegar

½ teaspoonful of celery seed

1 teaspoonful of mustard seed

The cabbage should be very crisp, and both cabbage and peppers, chopped exceedingly fine. Mix all the other ingredients together and pour over the cabbage and peppers. Mix and serve.

Soft-Shell Crabs, Fried

Crabs are found on all our seacoasts. During the spring and early summer the shells are shed, and the crabs are taken before the new ones have time to harden. Soft-shell crabs are considered by many a luxury. Crabs are kept alive until time of cooking, usually in baskets or boxes of seaweed in contact with ice. The under side of the crab is lighter in color. The large claws are in front to protect the head: the others are back of these along the sides. The eyes in front are easily distinguishable. The covering on the back tapers to a sharp point, running out on each side over the claws. Set the crab in its natural position. Take hold of one of the points. Turn it backward and scrape out the breathing organs beneath. Repeat this process on the other side. Now turn the crab on its back. A point of soft shell may be seen at the center. Sometimes this is light and sometimes dark colored. With the thumb and finger lift this point, and pull it from the crab. Also scrape away the spongy organs found beneath. Wash the crabs in cold water, and wipe gently with a soft cloth. When perfectly dry, sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in sifted bread crumbs, then dip in beaten egg. Again roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat to a golden brown. Cook about three minutes. Serve at once with sauce tartare.