Select a good, fleshy middle short loin, the meat being pink and very tender. Cut slices an inch and three-quarters thick, in the tenderloin and sirloin, sawing away the spine bone from the rib. Cut off the fat and sinews, and trim it nicely to the shape of the accompanying plate; after trimming it should weigh two pounds and a quarter. Season with salt and pepper, and baste over with oil or clarified butter, then broil on a slow, well sustained fire for fifteen minutes if desired rare, eighteen minutes if properly done, and well cooked, twenty minutes, only turning it over once in the middle of cooking. When finished, lay the steak on a very hot dish, covering it with maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581).

It is easy to find out when the meat is done. Press lightly in the center with the first tinner, and if the meat be soft, and offering a slight resistance, then it is cooked rare; to have it done properly it must be firm, without resisting as much to the touch; and to be well done, it must be firm, and offer resistance. Practice alone can teach how to cook by the touch, which differs according to the quality of the meat.

(1363). Double Porterhouse Steak A La Sanford (Bifteck D'Aloyau Double A La Sanford)

Mr. Wright Sanford. one of the most fervent disciples of the house of Delmonico, and an acknowledged epicurean, was specially fond of ordering this dish. Much care should be given to its cooking which must operate slowly, while maintaining the same degree of heat throughout, so that it thoroughly reaches the steak.

Cut through all the thickness of the short loin a slice two and a quarter inches thick; it should weigh alter being trimmed, four pounds and a half. Season with salt, cover with oil, and broil the steak on a slow, but well sustained fire for twenty-four minutes if needed rare, twenty-eight minutes to be properly done, and thirty-two minutes if desired well done. Turn the meat over when half cooked, dress the steak on a very hot dish, garnish the top with ribbons of horseradish (No. 98), and pour around a Madeira sauce (No. 492), well buttered with some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581).