This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Select six good, fat thrushes, not taking those that are too large; singe and split them down the back to bone the breasts and draw the insides; season the interior meats and lay in each one a ball of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), mixed with a third as much of the intestines from the birds, cooked, pounded and rubbed through a sieve. Sew up the opening on the top, truss the legs and shorten the stumps. Melt some grated fat pork in a saucepan, range the birds in this, season and fry while turning them over until partly cooked, then drain and draw out the sewing thread without disturbing the legs. Add to the fat in the saucepan two or three spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), a pinch of bread-crumbs and some grated fat pork, obtaining a light paste. Oil over with a brush six oval paper cases, and on the bottom of each spread a layer of this paste and over place a thrush; set the cases on a buttered sheet, cover with buttered paper and push into a slack oven to finish cooking the birds.
At the last moment remove, untruss the legs, glaze over with a brush and set each case inside another white one in order to serve them neatly.
Split eight thrushes through the back, leaving on the breastbone and legs; stuff them with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), add to this forcemeat a third of its volume of foies-gras from a terrine, mix well together and inclose a ball of the forcemeat an inch and a half in size in a bird, and place them in buttered oval tin rings, covering over with thin layers of fat pork, and cook them in a slack oven. Oil some oval paper cases, turn them on to a grater and lay this on a baking sheet, stiffen them in the oven, remove and line them with a light layer of the same forcemeat; place a thrush inside of each and push them into a slow oven for twelve minutes; as soon as done remove the pork, drain off the fat and cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and game fumet (No. 397); set the case inside of another cleaner and larger one, then serve.
 
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