This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Uprights are generally used for cylindrical molds; they are made with a wooden base-plate, having a hole bored in the center to insert a column therein; this column must be higher than the mold and of proportionate thickness to the opening in the cylinder. It answers the purpose of supporting the dessert and all the ornamental pieces laid on top. These wooden supports are covered with gum paste and surrounded by a gum-paste edge. Cold dessert ornaments consist of hatelets, voluptes, tufts and aigrettes.
Hatelets are silver-plated skewers a quarter of an inch wide and eight inches long, pointed on one end, and fancifully decorated on the other; these hatelets are garnished with rounds of different colored fruits and finished as explained in No. 2526, using sweet jelly (No. 106) instead of aspie jelly. They can be used to decorate cold entremets. When required for ornamenting large dessert cakes they are simply garnished with fine preserved fruits.
Voluptes are scrolls of arabesque design made of cooked sugar poured in thin fillets on lightly oiled marble and then grouped together, standing upright in fours, sixes or eights, also cast in sugar.
Tufts are made of spun sugar molded in the hand into the shape of a ball. These balls are at times laid directly on the dessert or else on voluptes of cooked sugar.
Aigrettes are also made of spun sugar put together like a small sheaf: this is cut off straight at a certain height, then molded into the shape of a cone; clip it off short, invert and fasten it on the dessert, either on top of a tuft or in the center of a volupte. Spun sugar is also used for making sultanas.
 
Continue to: