This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
The sauces for cold desserts are cold English cream (No. 42), flavored with vanilla, lemon or orange peel or with liquor. Sweetened whipped cream also flavored with vanilla, liquors or fresh fruit juices. Fine purees of fresh fruits sweetened with icing sugar: these can also be flavored with liquors.
Peel as many large apples as pears and with a tin tube take from them small sticks an inch and a quarter long by five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter; cook the apple sticks in a clear syrup and the pear ones in a syrup colored with carmine, being careful to keep them all rather firm; leave to cool off in their syrup and then drain and wipe. Coat a plain timbale mold with jelly, incrust it well in ice, take up the pear and apple sticks one by one and dip them in half-set jelly, then arrange them against the sides of the mold: on the first row lay another and so on until the mold is completely lined. Then fill it with an apple " pain " preparation, made as explained in No. 3194, substituting apples for apricots, and flavor with vanilla, incorporating into it a salpicon of preserved fruits cut in dice, selecting for this purpose, pineapples, apricots, pears and cherries cut in two; let the Suedoise harden on ice for an hour and a half. When ready to serve dip the mold hastily in hot water, unmold on a cold dish and surround the base with small ribboned jelly croutons (No. 3198;.
Butter a charlotte mold and fill it three-quarters full with either baba paste (No. 129)' or plain Savarin paste (No. 148): let it rise as high as the tup in a mild temperature: bake the cake in a moderate oven and five minutes after it has been taken from the oven pare the top off straight, then turn it over on a pastry grate and soak it with a syrup flavored with lemon and maraschino. When the cake is thoroughly cold return it to the mold and slice off the bottom so as to be able to empty it out, leaving only a thickness of five-eighths of an inch at the top and sides: fill this hollow space with layers of small strawberries and pour over them a cooked Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with cold burned punch. Close the opening on the cake with the removed slice and invert it on a cold dish, covering it over with a frothy sauce prepared as follows:
Pour into a tin basin three gills of English cream flavored either with vanilla or lemon (No. 42), having it slightly consistent and cold; beat it up vigorously fur a quarter of an hour on ice and when light and frothy add two or three spoonfuls of firm and well-drained whipped cream mixed in with a spoon.
 
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