This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
All pieces that are made of pulled and spun sugar are exceedingly useful for many reasons, as large-sized pieces can be executed at a comparatively low cost and yet be most elegant, graceful and light; besides the rapidity of the execution, they can be made to assume a great variety of shapes, and all this with very few or even no molds. The designs shown in Figs. 753 and 754, will demonstrate the many uses to be made of pulled and spun sugar, and although they demand much skill and attention, yet they do not otter the same difficulties as gum paste. The socles or stands for these pieces may be of white nougat (No. 3623), molded and cut out, and the embellishments around the base of the vases may also be of almond paste (No. 125) glazed with caramel. The three swans seen on one of the socles are made of very white cooked sugar 1320 degrees Fahrenheit), poured into slightly oiled tin molds; leave till cold, then unmold. The whole work must be mounted symmetrically, being careful that each part is firmly attached and the piece perfectly secure.
For vases of white or colored cooked sugar ( No.3616) trace outlines of the designs on marble (see Fig. r38), having sixteen, twenty-tour or even thirty-two pieces for each vase, Take a stick six to eight inches higher than the intended vase and coat it with cooked sugar; roll it on the marble until it becomes exceedingly smooth, leave it until cold, then fasten it vertically on to the center of the socle: adapt the traced pieces perpendicularly around this stick at equal distances apart. Prepare the flowers and leaves of pulled sugar (Figs. 735 to 741); mount them on wire stalks covered with sugar, and attach them solidly against the stick inside the top of the vase, spreading them open slightly to enlarge and to give a graceful effect to the blossoms. Decorate the base of the socle with flowers and leaves of pulled sugar. Should the pieces be very large. then it will be found advisable to mount the bouquet separately and place it in the vase when in position on the dinner table; in this case instead of having the stick higher than the vase it must be at least six inches lower, to leave room for a receptacle intended to receive the flowers, the latter to be the same shape and size as the upper portion of the vase, and to be made of nougat (No. 3622), stand this inside the vase and place the flowers tastefully within.

Fig. 753.

Fig. 754.
 
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