This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Split some shelled almonds or filberts in two: if almonds are used mince well and roast lightly in the oven, on a baking sheet without letting them color, then mix in with them half their weight of sugar and enough egg-white, so they be entirely covered by the sugar. When the burnt almonds are spread on cakes, they must be covered over with sugar and glazed in a brisk oven.
Put into a vessel three ounces of powdered sugar, one ounce of vanilla sugar, four ounces of icing sugar. Dilute this compound gradually with egg-whites, in such a manner that a smooth running paste is obtained, and beat it well for several minutes, so that it becomes a consistent body. To this add six ounces of dry almonds or filberts, shelled, ground or chopped up very fine.
When the almonds are partly dry, chop them up and sift them through a sieve (Fig. 94), chop again all that remains on the sieve and continue until there be no more to pass through.
Are freshly peeled almonds dried well in a cloth, then cut into thin fillets on their length, or else put them into a special machine that shreds them also, but they never look so well, as the machine cuts them into all sorts of shapes, while with the knife, they are cut into uniform lengths.
Pound half a pound of almonds with a few spoonfuls of cold water and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water: prepare a very fine paste with this and dilute with a pint of water; strain the liquid forcibly through a napkin.
In order to remove the peels from almonds, filberts or pistachio nuts, they must first be plunged into boiling water and left on the fire until the skin detaches easily under the pressure of the finger, then drain and refresh in cold water; now drain and peel them by removing the skins wash in cold water, drain, wipe and dry in the heater or in a well aired place.
To be peeled dry, crack the shells with a nut-cracking machine, being careful not to break the kernel, then peel them dry by putting the nuts on a baking sheet and pushing it into a medium oven, removing them immediately the outer skin detaches when the nut is rubbed between the thumb and first finger; keep them either whole or in halves and use tor ice cream and desserts. Those peeled in water are for chopping, or splitting in two for nougats, also for cooked sugar pastes.
Almonds are pounded in a mortar or crushed in a machine; in the mortar by wetting a few at the time with either eggs or liquids, then stirring in some sugar. In a machine, by mixing the almonds and sugar together and pouring it into the funnel of the machine; the first time they should be barely crushed, pass through four times, tightening the cylinders slightly for each turn, and the last time the almonds should be reduced to a paste.
Use chopped or shredded almonds for coloring. For pink, dilute a little carmine in some thirty degree syrup with a little kirseh; rub the almonds in this and dry them.
For violet, use red, blue and maraschino; for orange, yellow, red and curacao; for lemon color, yellow and noyau; and for green, spinach and orange flower water.
 
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