This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
The cold service is the most elegant and artistic one of the culinary art. It requires taste, skill and much study in order to learn the necessary moldings, modelings and requisite cookery. Ornaments render the socles and the pieces beautiful and coquettish; their appearance should be neat and precise; the pieces must be well defined and designed before beginning; prepare all the needed materials beforehand so that when the work has once begun there will be nothing to delay the progress. Wax flowers.and leaves are very useful, therefore a good workman must learn to make them in great variety. Any ordinary cook can attain renown by studying the complicated ways of preparing cold dishes, but he must give his sole attention to this special part which helps to increase his reputation and develop his ideas, for by it he elevates his trade to a positive art. The manner of properly preparing sauces, side dishes, roasts and pastries should of course be executed with as much care as the cold. Jellies should be tasty, limpid and transparent; if they be defective, then the handsomest pieces are open to criticism. Hatelets and jelly garnishings greatly enhance the appearance of the pieces, therefore care should be used that they are most beautiful and all croutons cut with precision and symmetry.
Cold pieces should be prepared beforehand, for they must not be hurried nor left to be finished at the last moment.
Remove the bones from a piece of breast or brisket of beef weighing about twelve pounds; put it in a brine of saltpetre (No. 15). After salting for eight days, drain and wash the meat; put it in a soup pot with plenty of water; let come to a boil, skim and leave to cook very slowly for four or five hours. When the meat is thoroughly done, untie the string, tighten the meat in the cloth, and fasten it like a boned turkey at both ends. Lay it under the press or a weight and as soon as the corned beef is cold undo and glaze it with some meat glaze (No. 402). Cut it in thin slices, replace as it was before cutting, garnish the dish with chopped-up jelly, or parsley sprigs, and serve.
Steep six lambs' brains in fresh water for half an hour; skin them by lifting off the thin cuticle enveloping them, also the sanguineous fibers, and return them to fresh water to soak for two hours more. Place them in a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover, adding salt and vinegar, and let boil slowly for twenty minutes. When cold and drained, dress in a circle, placing between every brain a crouton of red lambs' tongue cut to resemble cocks'-combs; decorate all around with garnishing of eggs (No. 2513), gherkins and beets; till the center of the circle with some green mayonnaise with fine herbs (No. 612), and surround with pretty clear jelly croutons.
 
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