This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Steep the smoked ham in cold water for twenty-four hours; wash, pare and remove the hip bone; put it in an earthen dish, pour over some Madeira wine and season with whole peppers, cloves, thyme, bay leaf. mace, garlic, sliced carrots and onions and lemon juice; keep it in a cool place for twelve hours turning the ham round several times in this marinade. Five hours before serving, wrap the ham up with its strained marinade fried in butter and moistened and reduced with white wine and the moistening of the marinade, in sheets of strong oiled paper; cover the paper with a flour and water paste so that the ham is hermetically enclosed, then cover this paste with another sheet of very thin oiled paper; lay it either on the spit or in the oven, pour oil over and roast for three hours; remove from the fire and make a small hole on the top to penetrate the paste and papers, set a funnel into this, and pour in a gill of good Madeira, the same quantity of malaga and half a gill of brandy. Cover the hole with a round piece of paper, and paste it over to concentrate all the strain which is essential to obtain success.
An hour after, take the ham from the oven or spit, unwrap, pare carefully and glaze with meat glaze (No. 402J; dress and garnish around with escalops of foies-gras, coeks'-combs and kidneys, and slices of red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and one inch and a quarter in diameter, quenelles and channeled mushrooms; cover the whole with a well-buttered supreme sauce ( No. 547), and trim the handle with a paper frill (No. 10), insert a few skewers in the top garnished with cocks'-combs and channeled mushrooms (No. 118).
This ham may be served with a jardiniere garnishing (No. 677) and a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) served separately.
Immerse in cold water for twelve hours a fresh, smoked ham, after cutting off the end of the handle bone and shortening the hip bone; suppress the part of the meat and the smoked fat and lay the ham in a large saucepan covering it over abundantly with cold water; set it on the fire, bring the liquid gradually to a boil, then drain off this water and replace it with tepid water, adding carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, hay leaf, sage and basil; season with peppercorns, cloves and mace. At the first boil remove it on one side so that it simmers only (the length of time fur its cooking will be a quarter of an hour for each pound); when the ham is nearly done, take the saucepan from the fire and leave it to cool off in the water for one hour longer, Just when prepared to serve drain the ham. suppress the rind and aitchbone, pare the fat and meat around and underneath and cut off all the meat from the handle. Lay the ham on dish and slice a piece off from the bottom so that it will stand plumb; glaze it over with a brush and place it in a deep baking tin with a little clear gravy (No.404) and as much Madeira wine; boil this up and keep it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, basting frequently with the gravy.
Dress on a long dish on a three-inch high rice socle, trimmed like a croustade and colored in the oven: pour half the gravy over, trim the handle hone with a. frill (No. 10) and surround with twenty-four crous-tades, eight tilled with green peas, eight with asparagus tops, and eight with quarter-inch squares of mushrooms. Serve at the same time but separately a sauce-boat <>l Madeira sauce (No. 492). This ham may also be served with a garnishing of Italian macaroni or lazagues and a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) instead of the Madeira.
 
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