This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
The piece from the end of the last chop to the beginning of the leg is called carbonade. The bones are first extracted from the loin and it is then pared on all its length and width and larded with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), season, roll and tie it up into an oblong square (Fig. 335). Line the bottom of a saucepan or braziere with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, onions, bay leaf and thyme; lay the carbonade over, set a heavy buttered paper on top and pour in a quart of stock (No. 194a); let simmer for two hours and a half. Fifteen minutes before serving time, glaze the carbonade letting it become a fine color, dress it and garnish around with small pear-shaped carrots cooked in broth (No. 194a), small blanched onions cooked the same, small turnip balls blanched and browned in the pan with a little sugar and finished cooking in broth, and celery knobs the size of a clove of garlic, blanched and cooked likewise in broth. All these vegetables should be only sufficiently moistened so that when they are done the liquid is reduced to a glaze; strain the meat stock, remove its fat and finish by reducing it to the consistency of a half-glaze and add Juvigny sauce (No. 485).
For plain cutlets use racks of mutton, having the meat tender and well-matured, suppress the skin covering the fat, shorten the rib bones and divide into equal-sized cutlets make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from about one inch of the end and scraping the bone clean, when nicely pared they should each weigh about four ounces. Salt the cutlets, baste with oil and range them all on the same side on the broiler; they take from eight to ten minutes to cook. When done, dress them on a dish, pour over a clear gravy (No. 404) and trim each chop with a paper frill (No. 10).
Mutton Chops are cut cither from a loin or half saddle of a sheep split lengthwise in two. These chops should be cut rather thick, each one about an inch and a halt and then flattened to an inch. Pare and season with salt, baste with oil and broil for about twelve minutes, dress and serve very hot.
Soyer chops are cut from the saddle dividing it into one and a half inch thick slices cut the full width of the saddle; they should each weigh twelve ounces after being pared and arc to be cooked for twelve minutes; when they are clone they can be split through the center so that one chop will answer for two persons; serve them very hot with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which Worcestershire sauce has been added, and buttered at the last moment, with the addition of fine raw herbs and nonpareil capers.

Fig. .335.

Fig. 336.

Fig 337.
Cut the chops from the saddle, lengthwise having them an inch and a half thick; flatten, pare and garnish each one with a kidney fastened on with a skewer thrust into the fat part of the chop above the million fillet; sprinkle with salt, baste with oil, and broil until of a fine color on one side, then turn over to finish cooking on the other, ten to twelve minutes in all; serve very hot surrounding them with water-cress.

Fig. 338.
 
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