This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
These are to be cut with a special machine (Fig. 557); they are shaped like thin spirals. Leave them soak in cold water for two hours, then drain well, and place inside a hinged double broiler to keep them apart; fry the same as the channeled potatoes (No. 2787).
Good souffled potatoes can lust be made by using those called Holland potatoes. First trim the raw potatoes in ovals of equal size, two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter wide, and then proceed to slice them lengthwise three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness. As quickly as they are cut throw them into a bowl of cold water, leaving them in for twenty-five minutes. Heat two panfuls of fat, one of fresh beef kidney suet, the other having previously been used for other purposes and therefore its strength being somewhat extracted, it should be clean and white. Wipe the sliced potatoes on a cloth, dry them thoroughly, put them in a basket and plunge them into the oldest fat, leaving them cook until they become soft, but do not let them take color. Remove and place them on a large sieve to drain and cool for a few moments, and just before serving plunge the potatoes into the fresh, hot fat, toss them, remove those that do not souffle-, also those that souffle badly; set them to cool, and return them again to the hot fat. Should they not souffle at the second immersion, it is useless to try again.
Salt the potatoes before serving, dress around the meat, or on a napkin in a separate dish.
Wash and brush medium-sized potatoes, wrap them in separate sheets of damp paper; range on a baking tin, and cook in a slack oven for thirty to forty minutes: remove, unwrap and make an opening on one side of each potato; empty the contents with a small spoon (Fig. 91 ), pound this to a pulp with fresh butter, salt, nutmeg and egg-yolks; refill the potatoes, close the aperture with the piece removed, and lay them on a buttered baking tin, having the opening uppermost. Push into a slack oven for twenty minutes, then dress on or inside of a folded napkin.
Prepare mashed potatoes the same as for duchess (No. 2785); make it rather firm with egg-yolks, butter and parmesan; with it fill some large buttered molds lined with puff paste parings ( No. 146), rolled out thin; press down well, and smooth the tops. Place on a baking sheet and push in a hot oven; unmold when nicely colored and dress as a garnishing or on a folded napkin.
Remove some rounds with a three-quarter inch diameter tin tube from slices of potatoes three-sixteenths of an inch thick; saute them in butter for two minutes, then drain. Line the bottom of a buttered timbale mold with part of these rounds, and the sides with separate rows laid on fiat, intercalating them in such a way that a round of potato lays between two others of the next row. Prepare a puree with a pound of potatoes boiled in salted water, drained and covered with a damp cloth, then dried in the oven; rub through a sieve and stir in two ounces of butter, one whole egg, one yolk, salt and nutmeg. Fill the timbale with this, lay the cover over and push into a moderate oven to cook for half an hour or more; when removed let stand for ten minutes, and invert on a hot dish.