This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
When the fricandeau is fully larded, split it through the middle. Take a very large turnip; or a piece of cold veal, which has been used to make a sauce, cut either round or oval, wrap it up in bacon, and thrust it within the cleft, as you have done in the fricandeau. Mark this as the other, and let it be done in the same manner. You must observe that it will be done sooner, that is, in less time. Glaze it. Now take either French beans or asparagus ; place them erect inside of the two extremities of the cleft, and pour a Macedoine between, with a very large sweetbread larded and glazed over the middle, which produces a very pleasing effect.
The same may be done for a fricandeau enpuits, with a blanquette in the middle.
We call grenadins small fillets of veal larded as a fricandeau, cooked and sauced in the same manner. Out of a noix of veal you may make two or three grenadins, according to its size. It is no easy matter to explain the manner of cutting them; let it suffice to say, that being much thinner than a, fricandeau, they naturally are done in less time. They are served up with a Macedoine, or with all sorts of purees.
It is so called, because in France the parish beadles wear gowns of two colours, one half of one colour, the other half of another.
Take the noix of a young heifer, and trim it as follows. If intended for an entree, choose the smallest you can procure ; if for a remove, the largest that can be got. Flatten it a little, retaining the udder. Form a crescent on the border of the fat, and pare that part where there is no fat. Lard it as a fricandeau; let it be done in the same manner, only cover with bacon the part that is not larded, in order to keep it white, and glaze it slightly when done. Being done in the same style as the fricandeau, it is served up with the same sauces.
The only part which I could wish to recommend in this case is the cassis *, which is fat, and a luscious eating. It is not generally sent up when there is a grand dinner; but for a family dinner it may prove very acceptable indeed. The plain way of cooking this I reckon the best, and will explain it accordingly. Take a stew-pan large enough to make the veal firm in a little butter, by frying ; when it is of a fine brown colour all round, put in a few carrots, onions, spices, a little lean bacon, and two calf's feet, seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme, etc. Moisten with two spoonfuls of broth or water, and let the whole stew for a couple of hours on a very slow fire. When done, drain the fat, take out the spice, and serve up the veal with the roots and the gravy all round.
These are to be larded and done in every respect as those above. Send up with a fine quenelle between or in the middle, and under them the ragout a la financiere, or the ragout a l'Allemaude.
Let the sweetbreads disgorge till they are quite white. Then blanch them thoroughly, which is known by their becoming quite firm. Then set them to cool in cold water. Lard them with ham, chequer-like, very close to the level* of the sweetbreads, mark the sweetbreads between layers of bacon; moisten with a good braize if you have any, if not, the same as the other, and stew them for three-quarters of an hour, Next drain and glaze them, and serve up either with a veloute, or Espagnole, or puree of sorrel, endive, or Macidoine.
Roast the veal as above; cut it in the same way; reduce the sauce tournee, season well, put the veal into the sauce before the thickening; chop some parsley very fine, and put it in with the juice of half a lemon before you mix it with the thickening; stir the stew-pan round without using a spoon, and send up to table quite hot.
N.B. - This is a very good method; but if you can cut your veal whilst quite hot, it will be a great improvement, as the sauce will then be better imbibed by the meat.
Roast a neck, or a loin of veal. The leg part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold, cut it into scollops and put it into the sauce blanquette. (See Sauces.) Take six fine cucumbers, cut them into quarters, pare them about the size of the scollops; then take the parings and some other pieces, which mince with a little onion. Fry the whole together in a little butter; when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten with a sauce tournee, and stew them on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and rub the sauce through a tammy. Put the other whole cucumbers into some sauce tournee, and let them boil till done. Then lay them in a hair sieve to drain. Put together the puree of cucumbers and the sauce tournee in which you have boiled the cucumbers; being sufficiently reduced, thicken it with yolks of eggs well beaten, and seasoned with salt and a very little sugar. When the sauce is well thickened with the aforesaid articles and a little thick cream, put in the meat and cucumbers, and keep the sauce hot, that the meat may have a better savour. This entree must be sweet, not too much so, but the sugar must predominate.
 
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