This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Take off and sautez the fillets as directed before. Have some rice swelled, and made soft in good consomme; mix it with a few spoonfuls of good veloute, to put in the middle of the dish: this rice must be thick, in order that it may be dished in a pyramid. To mask the soles, take three spoonfuls of veloute, mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of cavice, and a little salt and pepper. Work this sauce well, and mask the fillets only. The rice is to form the centre of the turban, as implied by the title.
Herrings are an excellent fish; but the flesh is so delicate, that no cook attempts to dress them otherwise than broiled or fried. Those with soft roes are the most delicate.
You know them to be very fresh when the eyes are very red, and the scales shine bright. You must broil them over a brisk fire, but never wash them. Empty and scale them carefully; cut off a small piece of the tail, and of the head, to prevent them from burning. Send them to table with mustard sauce in a boat.
Have a paper case, either round or square; its size must be suited to the dish you are going to use: spread some butter over the bottom. Broil eight very fresh soft-roed herrings, and when well done, take out the roes, and put them, without breaking, into the case. Sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, rasped bread, and finely chopped parsley; put a few small bits of butter over them in different places, and bake them in a hot oven. When they are done, put a little maitre d'hotel into the case, with the juice of a lemon. Send up quite hot, and very firm.
This fish is not in the repute which it deserves; for when it is well-dressed, it is superior to any other, but it must be used when very fresh.
Empty and clean this fish as you do every other; then make a good stuffing in the following manner: two handfuls of crumbs of bread, the same quantity of beef suet well chopped, parsley, and a little thyme chopped very fine, two whole eggs, a drop of cream, a small bit of butter, salt, a little Cayenne pepper, and a very little spice ground very fine; mix this very well, and put it into the belly of the fish, and sew it up; bind the tail of the fish to the mouth, and fasten it with a skewer, then rub the fish all over with a brush dipped into the yolk of an egg: sprinkle over some salt, then some crumbs of bread, and baste with clarified butter; then put this to bake in a very hot oven, in order to give it a good colour. When done, drain it, and serve up with Dutch sauce.
Take one large piper, or three small ones, strip the flesh from the bone, and divide it into fillets of the same shape; then put them into a saute pan with clarified butter, as for other fillets, with salt and pepper; when it is dinnertime put them on the stove, or into the oven; when done, drain them, and dish them the same as fillets of soles, and the sauce is the same; but they are better eating than either soles or whitings. (See White Sharp Sauce, page 11, No. 25.)
The same as No. 2, only you must use the maitre d'hotel instead of white sharp sauce.
The same as fillets of whiting, No. 2, page 271. Observe that the piper is best when red.
This fish is in great repute, and deserves it, for the deli* cacy of its flesh; you may boil them; but in general to eat them in great perfection, you must wash them well, but not empty them: drain them very dry in a clean cloth; then have some buttered paper and a little salt, wrap them well in if and put them into the oven, or broil them if yon have no oven; they may be eaten with lobster sauce, or anchovy sauce alone; Bend them to table without the paper.
Mackarel is a fish generally esteemed by all ranks of people. The rich eat it on account of its good savour, the poor because it is cheap. It must not be washed, when intended to be broiled. Empty and wipe it well. Open the back, and put into it a little salt and oil. Broil it on a gentle fire; turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. With the point of your knife try if it is done, by detaching the bone from the flesh. Send it up with a maitre d'hotel melted, in a boat. When you wish to eat them very good, and have the taste of the fish, they must not be washed; only pull out the eyes, and empty the intestines; then wipe them clean and dry with a damp cloth; next make an incision on the back, put over them some salt and pepper, and a drop of sweet oil, to prevent them from sticking to the gridiron; broil them well, and then put into the back some butter, kneaded with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon, etc. as directed above.
 
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