This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fire, it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is extremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar, and very little salt. Then infuse the peel, of half a lemon; but if the taste of orange flowers, roses, or vanilla, etc. should be more agreeable, use them in preference, according to the taste of your employer. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire. When it is done, throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which you beat up with it, and let them do over the stove. When you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently with the rest, and set the whole into a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread: mix with the preparation some dried cherries and currants, and proceed as you would do for a souffle. When done, turn the mould upside down in a dish, and send up hot.
Put half a quarter of a pound of very clean tapioca, with a quart of hot milk, a small bit of sugar, a very little salt, and one leaf of almond laurel; let this boil gently over a slow fire; when the tapioca is done, put it into a silver stew-pan, and set it on a pretty sharp stove fire to gratine; let it stick Very much to the bottom of the stew-pan; take out the laurel leaf, and serve it up with a cover over.
Take fifty good chesnuts, and put them into a hot oven, observing that you must cut each of them with the point of your knife, to prevent them from bursting. When well roasted, clean them, and put three parts of them (taking care to choose those parts that have colour) into the mortar, with three ounces of butter and a spoonful of cream; rub this paste through a hair sieve, then mix with it the same quantity of butter as before, a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream; put the whole over the fire in a stew-pan to dry like royal paste, or a choux; when it has acquired a little consistence, put to it six yolks of eggs, and give to the preparation the taste you think proper, as lemon, vanilla, cedrat, coffee, etc.; let this paste go to the fire again after you have put the yolks of the six eggs; stir it well with a wooden spoon till it is rather firm; then butter a dish, and spread this paste over, equally, with your knife; cover this with a sheet of buttered paper, and let it cool; when cold, cut it with a knife, and take half of a chesnut, and make the paste into the shape of a big chesnut; put some crumbs of bread over the croquettes, then dip them into three eggs beaten up with a little salt, and into the crumbs again; give them a good shape, fry them of a nice colour, and serve them without fried parsley, as a sweet dish; sometimes dip them into eggs only, without crumbs; they are more delicate. Put fine sugar over them after they are fried.
It will be sufficient to observe on the subject of souffles, that they are all made in the same manner, and that they vary only in the taste you give them. If sent up in proper time they are very good eating, if not, they are no better than other puddings.
Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has boiled, and in which you have infused the peel of a lemon; to this add a little sugar, a large lump of butter, and a little salt; the taste of the sugar, however, must predominate; yet observe, that the less sugar you use the lighter the souffles are. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the above preparation into a souffle dish, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the souffle is done enough, powder a little sugar over it, and use the salamander; souffles must be served up the moment they are ready, for they are liable to sink.
 
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