This section is from the book "Hand-Book Of Practical Cookery", by Pierre Blot. Also available from Amazon: Hand-Book of Practical Cookery, for Ladies and Professional Cooks.
Grease with oil your marble for pastry, place the same mould as above over it but upside down, that is, the broader end down; grease the outside also with oil. Then place the rows of carpels of oranges all around outside of it, and in the same way as described above. The croque en louche is more easily made this last way, but it is more difficult to remove the mould. Mould and fruit must be turned upside dowr carefully, after which the mould is pulled off.
If the syrup gets cold, it hardens, and cannot be used; in that state, add a little water and put it back on the fire, but it is difficult to re warm it; generally it colors and is unfit. When that happens, make burnt sugar with it, or a nougat. It is better and safer to make a little of it, just what can be used before it gets cold, and if not enough, make some a second and even a third time. While the sugar is hot, and while you are dipping the fruit in it, be careful not to touch it, as it burns badly. In glazing the fruit first, some syrup falls in taking it from the pan to the stick; place your marble board, greased with oil, under, so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it.
Roast the chestnuts, skin them well, then hook, dip, and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges. A pyramid also may be made, and a sightly one it makes.
They must be picked with their stems, and by which you tie two together with a piece of twine. See that they are clean and dry, and have two sticks instead of one, placed parallel, about two inches apart, in order to prevent the two cherries from touching, when hung, as they would immediately adhere. Proceed for the rest as described for oranges.
Small, ripe pears are excellent glazed; peel them, but leave the stem on, and then proceed as with sherries in every particular.
The berries must be picked with the stem. Wash them in cold water, drain, dry, or wipe carefully, and then proceed as for cherries in every particular. A more delicate dish than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made.
When clean, proceed as described for cherries.
Take plums, well ripened and with the stems on, and proceed as with cherries.
Soak the prunes in tepid water, and when dry, hook them like carpels of orange, and finish in the same manner.
When clean and dry, tie two clusters to-gether, and proceed as for cherries.
Cut pine-apple in dice, and proceed as described for carpels of orange.
As a general rule, the more watery the fruit the more reduced the syrup of sugar must be. If it is not reduced enough, small pieces of ice, formed by the water of the fruit, will be found while eating it. The fruit must be ripe. It is done also with preserved fruit. It is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and syrup without a hydrometer.
The following preparation may be added to the fruit, or to punch, as soon as it begins to freeze; it is not indis-pensable, but gives it more body: Put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold water, set on the fire, stir now and then till it comes to a boil, then boil till it is at the fifth state or 43°, and take off. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, flavor with essence of vanilla, and turn the sugar into the eggs, little by little, but do not stop beating until the whole is in. Then move the mixture gently round with a spoon for about a minute, and it is ready for use.
 
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