This section is from the book "The Illustrated London Cookery Book", by Frederick Bishop. See also: How to Cook Everything.
The cock bird when young has a smooth black leg with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist supple feet when fresh; the absence of these signs denotes age and stateness; the hen may be judged by the same rules.
Fowls like a turkey; the young cock has a smooth leg and a short spur; when fresh the vent is close and dark. Hens when young have smooth legs and combs; when old these will be rough; a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a poll comb and a swelling breast.
In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and free from hair. When fresh the feet are pliable; they are stiff when stale..
Ducks may be selected by the same rules.
Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm; if discoloured and supple they are stale.
Plovers, when fat, have hard vents; but, like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the above rules.
When a hare is young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is narrow, the body stiff,, the ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp; and old and stale hares will be the opposite of this. Rabbits the same.
Yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by which a young bird may be known, and a rigid vent when fresh. When this part is green the bird is stale.
Pheasants may be chosen as above; the young birds are known by the short or round spur, which in the old is long and pointed.
Grouse, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, Ortolans, etc., may be chosen by the rules above given.
 
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