These are made in great variety, and by many different recipes. Perhaps there is no dish which in England it is so difficult to make suitable to the taste of Anglo-Indians. The fresh fruits, the grated cocoa-nuts, the carefully prepared curry powders and paste which are readily attainable in India are not always to be found here, and for these reasons only general rules for preparing curries can be given. Captain White's curry-paste gives to curries the flavour of tamarinds and other ingredients used in India, but the curries most liked by English eaters are those which are lightly flavoured, and not too hot. Any kind of fish, meat, game, or poultry is suitable for curries, cold cooked provisions and vegetables answer very well for them. The remains of a roasted loin of dairy-fed pork is very good. If the meat has to be fresh cooked for it, choose about a pound and a half of the best end of the fore loin. Cut it into small chops, place them in a stewpan in which an ounce of butter has been dissolved, sprinkle curry powder and salt over the chops, and slice in two onions.

Put the stewpan on the range at a very low heat, and allow the meat to cook slowly for two hours in its own juices. If it becomes dry a spoonful or two of water or gravy must be added from time to time. When the meat is ready - it must be very well done - take it out of the stewpan, put it in a basin, set it in a saucepan of water and keep warm whilst you prepare the gravy. Put a gill of cold water into the stewpan, which will cause the fat to rise; take it all off, then put in a minced onion, boil it until tender, stir in a teaspoonful of curry powder, one of Captain White's curry paste, and a tablespoonful of fine flour mixed smooth in rather less than half a pint of new milk. Stir the gravy over the fire until thickened, put in the meat, taste if salt enough, and let them simmer very gently together for a quarter of an hour. Let boiled rice be handed round with the curry.

If preferred, instead of Captain White's paste, a sharp apple may be substituted, which should be boiled with the minced onion; a little tomato conserve is a good addition, or mushroom vinegar or lemon juice.

With some kinds of curry thin pieces of cooked ham are handed round, and boiled rice is universally served with them. The meat for curries is always so well cooked as to be eaten with a fork and spoon by those who prefer to do so. The best curries can be made in Captain Warren's pot, which is to be had at a moderate price.

An acceptable kind of curry is made as follows: - Cut two pounds of meat into small pieces, chop two or three onions, add salt, a little cayenne pepper, a teacupful of milk, and stir all together. Fry a third onion in a quarter of a pound of butter, take it out, and having mixed a spoonful of turmeric in a little water; stir it into the butter over the fire for five minutes, taking care it does; not burn. To this put all the other ingredients, with the fried onions, stirring well together. As soon as it boils add a little water, and repeat this as often as necessary until the meat becomes tender, when put as much water as will cover it, and let it simmer until the gravy is much reduced. This dish requires five hours to prepare and simmer it, as well as great care and attention during the whole process. Only sufficient turmeric to give a yellowish tinge must be used; if coriander is liked, it may be added.

Curried Eggs

Curried Eggs are used as an entree and a breakfast dish. They are first boiled hard, and then, either whole or in slices, re-warmed in a good curry sauce.

Dry Curry

Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, cut up the flesh of cooked chicken legs, or any other tender meats, into dice, mix them with the onions, and stir them together over the fire until the meat is hot through- Sprinkle over it about a saltspoonful of curry-powder, and salt to taste. Having thoroughly mixed the curry-powder with the meat, pour over it a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir over the fire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt may be used instead of plain salt, and some persons add a few drops of lemon juice when the curry is finished.

Rice For Curries

Patna is the best rice for curries. It should not be small or broken, and, if fine, costs as much as "Carolina." Well wash the rice, throw it into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water and a little salt. Keep the saucepan boiling fast for fifteen minutes, then try a grain of rice by rubbing it between the thumb and finger; if it crumbles it is done, if not, boil a few minutes longer. When done strain the rice into a colander, and pour quickly over it a small cup of cold water: this will cause the grain to separate. Then return the rice to a dry saucepan, shake over the fire for a minute, and it will be ready. The saucepan used for rice requires to be scrupulously clean, as if otherwise the rice will take a slight green or yellow tinge. It is almost needless to say that when properly cooked, rice is a very pure white.