On Frying Fish

Perhaps there is nothing in the whole range of cookery which will so test the powers of a cook as a plainly fried sole or whiting. Yet there is nothing difficult in the operation if attention is paid to a few simple elementary rules. A very common excuse with cooks for failure in this matter, is the quality of the fish they have had to dress. If it is not brown they say it was stale and would not cook properly; if underdone it had been kept too long on ice, with a number of other reasons equally fallacious. The fact is that, although it will not taste good, stale fish will brown and cook as well as that which is perfectly fresh. Of late years raspings have been much used for frying fish; if of a very pale colour, and sifted as fine as possible, they may be used, but properly prepared bread-crumbs are greatly to be preferred. Bread two days old should be chosen, and after being broken up and rubbed through a coarse strainer, should be put into the oven at a low heat or on the range to dry, then the crumbs should be pressed through a very fine strainer, and if at all moist, again dried in the oven. Crumbs properly prepared will keep a long time. When the cook is at leisure, she should get a quantity of crumbs ready, for if not at hand when wanted she will be placed at a disadvantage.

The bread-crumbs being ready, they should have two tablespoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a large pinch of pepper mixed with them to the proportion of a quarter of a pound of crumbs. As a matter of economy, both the white and yolk of an egg may be used for egging the fish, but it is better to use the yolk only with a very little of the white. Unless the fish has been most thoroughly dried in a cloth, the egg and crumbs will not adhere properly. The frying-pans in ordinary use will not admit of sufficient fat being used to cover the fish; it is, therefore, necessary to turn it, which can be readily managed when the fish is half done, that is, properly browned on the under side. The fat must be the right temperature when the fish goes in, that is 350º, which will give the usual domestic test of browning instantly a piece of bread dipped in it. Any one with the least experience should know when fried fish is done without cutting it. If a fork or skewer is thrust into the thickest part of the fish, it will stick and be difficult to withdraw if the fish is not done, but if, on the contrary, it is done, the fork will come out with great ease. Large thick fish are not suitable for frying whole, they should be filleted, stewed, or boiled.

Fried Smelts

Dry the fish, egg, and pass them through bread-crumbs very finely sifted, mixed with an equal quantity of flour and a little salt. Fry quickly in plenty of fat, as directed for soles. The smelts must be very crisp and dry, and when done be a rich golden brown.

Sea Bream

Sea Bream is excellent if cooked in fish or meat stock with the addition of vinegar, and is even better than when baked and stuffed.

Collared Eels

Clean, skin, and boil the eels in water highly seasoned with pepper and salt, an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and a little vinegar. When the eels are done enough, slip out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two inches long. Take the liquor in which the fish has boiled, strain it, let it boil in the stewpan without the lid, skimming it until it becomes clear. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to each half-pint of the fish gravy, and boil both together for a minute, let it then stand until cool. Arrange the pieces of eel tastefully in a plain mould with small sprigs of curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, if you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. When all the fish is thus arranged in the mould pour the jelly in very gently, a tablespoonful at a time, in order not to disturb the solid material. Let the mould stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when the contents can be turned out. Ornament the dish with parsley, lemon-juice, and beetroot.

Dried Mackerel

Cook as directed for kippered herrings. This fish is not so suitable for curing as those above-mentioned, and consequently is apt to be dry and hard.

Rechauffe Of Turbot

Cut the pieces neatly from the bone, lightly pepper, salt, and flour them. Have a little butter in the frying-pan, and let the fish cook gently until warm through and a nice brown, or the pieces may be brushed over with yolk of eggs, crumbed lightly with seasoned bread-crumbs, and then fried quickly in a little butter.