For a handsome dish, about six pounds of the middle cut of a fine salmon will be required. When, however, appearance is not an object, a less expensive piece answers well, and the whole of a moderate-sized salmon makes an elegant dish. Salmon, and indeed all other kinds of fish, should be boiled either in a fish stock, or one flavoured with vegetables, spices, herbs, and, if possible, a little wine. The liquor in which ham or bacon has been boiled, with the addition of turnips, carrots, onions, bay leaves, thyme, and a few white peppercorns, makes an excellent stock in which to boil salmon. The stock should be strained, but have the fat left on it. Put a sufficient quantity of stock into the fish-kettle to cover the salmon, as soon as it boils put in the fish, allow it to boil for one minute, then draw the kettle to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently until the fish is done; it will probably take three-quarters of an hour. When done, remove the kettle from the fire, and let the fish get cool in the liquor, then drain and place it on its dish. Ornament the edge of the dish with neatly picked pieces of endive and water-cress, interspersed with beetroot cut into the shape of flowers, olives, or leaves. Just before serving the fish pour the sauce over.

In the case of a whole fish, it is better not to pour the sauce over, but to serve it in a tureen. In order to raise the salmon on the dish, and give it a handsome appearance, it may be laid on the fish drainer, covered with a napkin, and decorated with prawns and water-cress or other salad, the sauce being served separately.

The reason so few persons succeed in making a satisfactory mayonnaise sauce is that they do not give the necessary time and patience. Three-quarters of an hour is the time required for making half-a-pint of mayonnaise, and, of course, for a larger quantity somewhat longer. For a pint of sauce, put the yolks of two large eggs, perfectly free from white, into a marble mortar, mix in two large pinches of salt, and then with the pestle work in drop by drop two teaspoonfuls of oil. Have ready mixed a tablespoonful each of French vinegar, of tarragon vinegar, and of chili vinegar. Work in a few drops of the vinegar, and then another teaspoonful of oil, proceed in this manner until the sauce begins to get thick, when rather more oil may be added at a time. Three gills of oil will be about the quantity required, and if the sauce has been successfully made it will be as thick and white as Devonshire cream. Great care should be taken in selecting the materials for mayonnaise sauce, and nothing is so disagreeable as the flavour of inferior oil.

An imitation mayonnaise may be used if there is not time to make the above. Prepare a quart of rich white sauce, and, when cold, flavour it with tarragon and chili vinegars.