This section is from the book "Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book", by Eliza Leslie. Also available from Amazon: Miss Leslie's new cookery book.
Have ready a quart or more of apples stewed with very little water, sweetened with brown sugar, and flavored with lemon or rose. Prepare a nice suet paste. Roll it out, and cut it into a square sheet. Spread it thickly with the stewed fruit, (not extending the fruit quite to the edges of the dough) and roll it up as far as it will go. Close it nicely at each end. Tie it in a cloth, dipped in hot water and floured, and put it into a fast-boiling pot. Boil it well. Cut it down in round slices. Eat it with butter and sugar beaten together, or with cream sauce. You may make this pudding of any sort of thick marmalade, spread over the sheet of paste; or, with ripe uncooked currants, raspberries, or blackberries, mashed raw, sweetened, and spread on thickly. This pudding is the same that common English people call a "Jack in a blanket;" and sometimes "a Dog in a blanket." The blanket is supposed to mean the paste; the dog is probably the fruit.
These are made in a pot lined with paste, interspersed with small squares of the same dough, and covered with a paste lid. The filling is of dried apples, peaches quartered, blackberries, raspberries, ripe currants, or goose-beries; all well sweetened, and cooked in their own juice, with a small tea-cupful of water at the bottom to "start them." Both fruit and paste must be perfectly well done.
Fruit pot-pies are easier made and cooked, than fruit puddings or dumplings. We recommend them highly for plain tables. They require more sugar when they are dished. A large bain-marie is excellent for cooking any sort of pot-pie, the water being all in the outside kettle.
Boil a quart of milk, with a small bunch of green peach leaves in it, or a half dozen of peach kernels broken up. When the milk has boiled well strain it into a broad pan, and set it away to cool. In a shallow pan beat six eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. Stir them, gradually, into the milk, in turn with a tea-cup of white sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon or mace. Transfer the mixture to a deep white dish, set it into the oven, and bake it till the top is well browned, but not scorched. When done, set it away to cool, and grate nutmeg over the surface.
Make exactly the above mixture; but instead of baking, boil it in a porcelain lined sauce-pan, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately from the fire, or it will curdle. Put it into a glass or china pitcher, and set it to cool. A bain-marie is excellent for boiled custard.
If custards are baked in cups, set them in an iron pan half full of warm water. If too hot, or kept baking too long, they will be tough and porous, and have whey at the bottom. So they will if the milk is warm when the eggs are added. Good custards will cut down to the very bottom as smooth and firm as the best blanc-mange.
Never bake apples without paring and coring. They will be found nearly all skin and core, and are troublesome and inconvenient to eat. Have fine large apples; take off a thin paring, and extract the core with a tin corer. Fill up the holes with brown sugar. Place the apples, side by side, in a square tin pan, set them in an oven, and bake them till, when tried with a fork, you find them soft all through. Send them to table warm, but not burning hot. If you have country cream to eat with them, so much the better.
 
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