Italian rice is the best of all, though rather difficult to get. It is different from either Carolina or Patna. Failing it, boil half a pound of best Carolina rice. When it is about half cooked, drain it off and replace it in stewpan. Add a good quarter of a pound of butter, stand it on the side of the stove, allow it to fry gently till the rice is quite done, stirring very frequently to prevent burning, which it will do unless constant attention is given. Then mix about half a pint of good demie glaze de volaille, or, if that should not be convenient, a little ordinary half-glaze. Add about a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, some tongue cut to size of a shilling, and about four or five truffles cut in slices, also bits of chicken the size of a shilling. Season to taste, and serve very hot in a silver souffle-dish, with a very little Parmesan grated over the top. It is an improvement as a change with risotto to press it into a round basin and turn it out before serving.

A very good way of cooking young potatoes is to put them into a black frying-pan, whole, in hot butter. Cover them up, and let them cook for an hour. This does very well for small old potatoes also.

A very creamy purée of potatoes (see 'Dainty Dishes') put into scallop-shells and browned in the oven, handed round with roast mutton, is rather a pretty change.

Fresh summer spinach, plain boiled and chopped (not too fine), and rolled in the middle of a large pancake is excellent.

A good purée of sorrel (see 'Dainty Dishes') with small Asparagus cut up into little pieces is an excellent May or June dish.