This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
Parboil eight ounces of pistachio kernels for two minutes in boiling water ; then remove the skin, wash and wipe the kernels, and pound them in a mortar with six ounces of sugar and a dessert-spoonful of orange-flower water; rub the whole through a fine hair-sieve, and place it in a large basin. Add to the pounded pistachios a spoonful of the green extract of spinach (No. 285), a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass ; mix well together, pour the cream into an oiled mould, and then set it in ice in the usual way.
PUt eight yolks of eggs into a stewpan with four ounces of ratafias, eight ounces of sugar, the grated rind of an orange, a small stick of cinnamon, a wine-glassful of curacao, and a pint of cream ; stir this over a stove-fire, in order to set the yolks of eggs in it, and then strain it through a tammy into a basin. Add thereto half a pint of whipped cream, and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass, and after having well mixed the whole together, pour it into a mould ready imbedded in rough ice to receive it.
Trim about six ounces of finger-biscuits perfectly straight, so as to make them fit closely to one another, and line the bottom and sides of a plain mould with these; then fill the interior of the charlotte with any one of the foregoing creams. The same kinds of fruit as are used for making a Macedoine jelly may be introduced in the cream.
Imbed a jelly-mould, or plain charlotte-mould, in some rough ice contained in an earthen pan; line the bottom and sides of the mould, with picked strawberries; which must first be dipped in some perfectly-cold liquid jelly; then fill the interior of this kind of charlotte with some strawberry-cream, prepared for the purpose.
Blanch four ounces of Jordan almonds with one ounce of bitter almonds, and when freed from their hulls, washed and wiped dry, let them be chopped rather fine. Next, place them in a sugar-boiler and stir them over a stove-fire with a wooden spoon until they have acquired a very light-brown color; these almonds should now be thrown into a pint of milk that has been kept boiling for the purpose; to this add six ounces of sugar and eight yolks of eggs, and stir the whole quickly over the fire until the yolks are set; when the cream must be immediately removed from the fire, and stirred for a few minutes longer, previously to its being rubbed through a tammy like a puree. The produce will present a light fawn-colored thick cream ; this must be mixed first, with rather better than an ounce of clarified isinglass, and then, three gills of whipped cream are to be lightly yet well incorporated. Pour the cream into a mould, and set it in ice as usual.
Set a jelly-mould in ice, and then proceed to ornament the bottom and sides with blanched almonds that have been split and well soaked to whiten them, each being first dipped in some rather strong and perfectly colorless jelly, previously to its being stuck to the sides of the mould. When the mould is thus ornamented, pour some of the same jelly into it, and by gently and gradually moving the mould round (side-ways) in the ice, cause the jelly to form a thin coating over the almonds. When the latter part of the process is satisfactorily effected, proceed to effect another coating about the third of an inch thick, with some pistachio cream (No. 1438); and when this is firmly set, fill up the cavity with some cream a' la Romaine (No. 1441a).
Note. - An infinite variety of creams, usually designated "en surprise," may be thus produced by using two different preparations of different creams, such as currant and orange-flower, apricot and vanilla, peach and noyeau, chocolate and white coffee, etc.
 
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