This section is from the book "The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches", by Charles Elme Francatelli. Also available from Amazon: The Modern Cook: A Practical Guide to the Culinary Art in All Its Branches.
Comprising Beefsteak and Oyster Pudding. Mutton Pudding. Kidney Pudding.
Pudding of small Birds, d la Chipolata. Snipe Pudding, d la D'Orsay. Sausage Pudding.
Line a two-quart pudding basin with some beef-suet paste; fill this lining with a preparation similar to that described for making beefsteak and oyster pie, except that the sauce must be more reduced. When the pudding is filled, wet the edges of the paste round the top of the basin with a paste-brush dipped in water, cover it with a piece of suet-paste rolled out to the size of the basin, fasten it down by bearing all round the edge with the thumb; and then with the thumb and fore-finger, twist the edges of the paste over and over so as to give it a corded appearance. This pudding must be either steamed or boiled three hours; when done, turn it out of the basin carefully, pour some rich brown gravy under it, and serve.
Line a basin as in the above case, fill the lining with thick mutton cutlets, slightly trimmed, or, if preferred, with steaks cut from the leg; season with pepper and salt, some parsley, a little thyme, and one small shalot chopped fine, and between each layer of meat, put some, slices of potatoes. Cover the pudding as in the foregoing article, steam or boil it for three hours, and serve some rich gravy under it when sent to table.
CUt two pounds of sheep's or lamb's kidneys into scollops, put them into a basin with some chopped parsley, shalot, and a little thyme, and season with pepper and salt; then add a large gravy-spoonful of good sauce, and the juice of half a lemon : mix these ingredients well together. Line a basin with suet-paste, and fill the pudding with the foregoing preparation; cover it in the usual way, steam or boil it for two hours and a half, and when sent to table, pour under it some rich brown gravy to which has been added a little Indian soy, and serve.
Most kinds of small birds may be used for this purpose, such as larks, sparrows, fieldfares, and wheatears, etc.
Take two pounds of small birds which have been picked clean, remove the gizzards, and fry them over a brisk fire until they are browned; add chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shalot, season with a little grated nutmeg, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, and a large gravy spoonful of brown sauce, also two dozen roasted chestnuts previously peeled, and a like number of small pieces of parboiled streaky bacon : boil these ingredients for three minutes, then fill the pudding with them, and cover it with paste, as usual. This pudding must be steamed on account of its richness. When done, turn it out of the basin with care, in order not to break it; pour a rich brown sauce under, and serve.
This pudding may be made in a plainer manner, by omitting the mushrooms, lemon-juice, sauce, and chestnuts - following in all other respects the same process.
Pick eight fine fat fresh snipes, singe them over a charcoal flame, and divide them into halves, remove the gizzards and reserve the trail for further use; season the snipes with a little Cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and set them aside on a dish till wanted. Then peel a Portugal onion, cut it into thin slices and fry these in a stewpan with a small piece of butter; when they are slightly browned, throw in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir them together on the fire for three minutes; then add a handful of chopped mushrooms and parsley, a small bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a small blade of mace and a clove of garlic; moisten with a pint of Claret; stir the whole upon the fire, and when these have boiled ten minutes, add the trail and a piece of good glaze. Set the sauce to boil for three minutes longer, and then rub it through a tammy into a puree upon the snipes. Next, line a pudding basin with suet-paste, fill it up with the foregoing preparation, and when covered with a piece of paste and properly fastened round the edges so as to prevent the escape of the volatile properties of the sauce, steam it in a covered stewpan for two hours and a half. When the pudding is done, turn it out of the basin with care, pour a rich brown game gravy under it, and serve.
Procure two pounds of Cambridge sausages, and twist each into three round balls; put these into boiling water, on the stove, merely to parboil them for a minute or so, then throw them into cold water and afterward remove the skins. Line the pudding basin with suet paste, fill it with the sausages, and pour the following preparation upon them : chop one onion and three sage leaves, boil these in water for two minutes, drain them upon a sieve, and then fry them in small stewpan with a piece of butter; as soon as they become of a light-brown color, add a table-spoonful of flour and a tea-spoonful of curry paste, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with half a pint of good broth; stir the sauce upon the fire, and when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, rub it through a sieve or tammy, and use it as above directed. Cover the pudding with paste, steam or bake it for two hours, and when turned out of the basin, send to table with plain gravy under it.
 
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