This section is from the book "Bonnes Bouches And Relishable Dishes For Breakfast And Luncheon", by Louisa E. Smith. Also available from Amazon: Bonnes Bouches and Relishable Dishes for Breakfast and Luncheon.
You must remember that fish should never be allowed to boil, only to simmer; when cooked, it should at once be dished and sent to table.
Turbot and legs of mutton should be short and plump.
Salmon should have small heads and bright scales; the fish should be thick at the neck, and have a stiff body.
Mackerel should be cooked as soon after it has been taken from the water as is possible, for it keeps worse than any fish, owing, it is believed, to the mackerel being carnivorous. If placed in vinegar when quite fresh, they will keep well, and the flavour will be better.
In the cleaning of fish, it is best to rub with fine salt. Open the fish far enough down, scrape the back-bone well, wash it thoroughly, but never leave it too long in water, as this deprives it of the full flavour. But when washed, wrap it in a clean dry cloth till ready to fry, broil or boil.
All articles look best at table when prettily garnished, especially fish.
When frying parsley, take it by the stalk, straight from the water, throw it into a pan of boiling fat; it will at once crisp, and be of a good colour. Remove it carefully with a slice, and lay it on paper to drain.
I have prepared many dishes with your help, and here are some more ways of cooking fish, which we have not yet tried: Sturgeon.
Some people find this a very indigestible dish, as it much resembles veal; others say it is fish, fowl, and flesh combined.
Two pounds is enough to cook at a time. Par-boil it in a little salted water, with a dash of vinegar added. Have ready a stew-pan that is large enough to hold it, and with enough gravy to cover. The gravy must be flavoured with sweet herbs, onions, a wine-glassful of sherry, and the juice of a lemon.
Allow the fish to simmer till quite tender, but not broken. Garnish with forcemeat balls, made in the same manner as for a veal-stuffing.
In sousing salmon in spiced vinegar, always cover the vessel tightly, and see that the fish is thoroughly immersed under the vinegar, then it will keep good and sweet for three weeks. In all description of pickling, add a small quantity of sugar, as it deprives the vinegar of its acid flavour, and makes it keep longer.
Nearly everything in the way of meat, fowl, fish, or even vegetables, can be made into scallops, which make a tasty dish for invalids. The chief ingredients used in making scallops are white gravy, cream, butter, bread crumbs, lemon juice, pounded mace and nutmeg.
I have never prepared a dish of crimped skate, because the fish has to be cut while alive, the crimping being due to the contraction caused by pain. This fish, it is said, takes a longer time to die than any other.
These are a much-despised little fish, but if properly cooked they make a very dainty dish. When cleaned (they must only be wiped with a dry cloth) thread through the heads on a skewer, then grill; when cooked, lay them on a hot dish, squeeze the juice from a lemon over them. Garnish with fried parsley.
 
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